Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
187
BB King Moscow's only real blues bar showcases the legendary Russian band Cross-
roads and top blues artists, as well as several crossover and mediocre musicians. Their
seafood okra gumbo is out of this world. Open daily from noon to 2am. 4/2 Sadovaya-
Samotechnaya Ulitsa. & 495/699-8206. Cover for concerts 350-400 rubles. Metro: Tsvetnoi
Bulvar.
JVL One of the most inventive jazz clubs in town, JVL has its own recording studio
and equipment. It's open Monday through Saturday from noon until the last guest
leaves. Enter from 21 Sushyovskaya Ulitsa, then go through the arch. 14/19 Novoslobods
kaya. & 499/978-2364. Cover 1,000 rubles, includes concerts, drinks and food. http://jvlclub.ru/
jazz/news.htm. Metro: Novoslobodskaya.
Le Club This laid-back, friendly venue was one of the first music clubs in Moscow.
Open daily noon to 2am. 16 Ulanskiy Pereulok, Hotel Ulansky. & 495/632-9264. Cover 500-
1,000 rubles. www.le-club.ru. Metro: Chistye Prudy.
FOLK & ALTERNATIVE
Traditional Russian folk music is best heard at seasonal festivals or at the Tchaikovsky
Concert Hall. Less formal, more rock-tinged versions can be heard at the following clubs
around town.
Apshu This is a good choice for seeing the exploration of new genres by Russia's non-
mainstream musicians and some well-known international visitors. Check out the bath-
tub in the middle of the hall lined with a mattress and blanket for anyone who wants
to climb in. 10 Klimentovsky Lane, building 1. & 495/953-9944. www.apshu.ru. Metro: Tretya-
kovskaya.
Chinese Pilot Jao Da The two halls here often offer starkly contrasting music to
keep you sharp, from Tuvan throat singers to British folk artists to techno salsa played by
a DJ. Open daily 24 hours. 25 Lubyansky Proyezd. & 495/624-5611. Cover for some shows
200-400 rubles. www.jao-da.ru. Metro: Kitai-Gorod.
Project OGI You could visit here just to read the concert listings or flyers on the wall.
More fun is to come on a night featuring Finnish percussionists or other music you might
not find at home. Open daily 24 hours. 8/12 Potapovsky Lane, building 2. & 495/627-5366.
www.proektogi.ru. Metro: Chistiye Prudy.
Vermel No longer as cutting-edge as it once was, Vermel is still a cozy spot for Celtic
duets, Russian bards, and other non-pop offerings. Open Monday to Friday from noon
to 5am, Saturday and Sunday from 6pm to 6am. 4/5 Raushkaya Naberezhnya. & 495/959-
3303. Cover Fri-Sat 350 rubles. www.vermel.ru. Metro: Novokuznetskaya.
9
NIGHTCLUBS & CABARET
Several hotels have their own nightclubs, though quality varies widely. Cabaret-style
shows offered by the international chains such as the Marriott hotels are certain to be
elegant, pricey, and relatively sterile. Older Soviet hotels offer cabaret shows of stale pop
music, a few chansons, and inevitably a topless or near-topless kick-line finale. A night at
the theater followed by a colorful local bar will offer greater cultural value and more fun
than such cabarets. Nightclubs (as distinct from dance clubs) are plentiful but often
double as bordellos, and even the places that look chic or elite generally include a strip
show. A favorite spot among many male expats is Night Flight, which you'll see vigor-
ously advertised.
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