Moscow After Dark - Moscow and St. Petersburg - page 188

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3 THE BAR SCENE

Moscow is full of places that call themselves bars but that can be anything from a fine
dining establishment or repository of rare Armenian brandy to a funky book-lined cafe
or a grungy pub where the neighborhood gathers to watch soccer matches. The only
thing they have in common is their willingness to serve you alcohol.
Boar House The wee hours get rather raunchy, but the rest of the time this is a reli-
able, relaxed spot for decent beer, international sports matches, and multilingual conver-
sation. 26 Zemlyanoi Val. & 495/917-0150. www.hotdogsbar.ru. Metro: Kurskaya.
Conservatory This atrium bar on the top floor of the Ararat Park Hyatt Hotel is one
of the few elegant and accessible places to watch Red Square at night. The ergonomic
design and gorgeous customers are as eye-catching as the view from the wraparound
windows. Cocktails and expensive French wines are the specialties, but the beer is fine,
too. 4 Neglinnaya Ulitsa. & 495/783-1234. Metro: Teatralnaya or Kuznetsky Most.
Help This cocktail bar has about 200 selections undergoing constant revision. Reason-
ably priced and chic but unpretentious. 27 Pervaya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, building 1. & 495/
995-5395. www.helpbar.ru. Metro: Belorusskaya.
Petrovich The schtick here is Soviet nostalgia, aimed at Moscow's worldly, post-
Soviet creative set. Much of the humor on the menu and in the decor will be lost on
anyone who didn't grow up under Brezhnev, but don't let that worry you. Its creative
drinks menu is well worth a visit, as is its lunch buffet. Unfortunately, Petrovich is osten-
sibly a private club at night, so unless you tell the guards you're meeting someone or
otherwise finesse your way in, it may be hard to get in after 6pm. The entrance in the
courtyard is on the left through an unmarked gray door. 24/3 Myasnitskaya. & 495/623-
0082. www.club-petrovich.ru/eng. Metro: Chistiye Prudy.
The Real McCoy Its atmosphere aims for American hillbilly bar, but it turns into a
raucous urban dance club after midnight. In early evening the popular after-work drink
spot offers jazz, swing, and occasional bluegrass bands. It's located in the basement of an
enormous apartment tower. 1 Kudrinskaya Sq. & 499/255-4144. www.mccoy.ru. Metro: Barri-
kadnaya.
Rosie O'Grady's Irish bars are a standard in any city around the world by now;
Moscow's Rosie O'Grady's went from being the only place in town with imported beer
on tap to becoming an institution that's always friendly and a good source of Guinness
for students and seniors alike. Live music on weekend nights. 9/12 Ulitsa Znamenka.
& 495/508-0752. www.rosie.ru. Metro: Arbatskaya.

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4 THE GAY & LESBIAN NIGHTLIFE SCENE

Whatever stigmas surround homosexuality in Russia, they fade as soon as night falls.
Russia's clubs are among its most gay-friendly venues, and many hold special gay nights
once a week. In addition, the gay club scene is thriving and evolving, though the hottest
spots tend to be accessible only by word-of-mouth—not out of fear of persecution, a
likely and terrifying possibility in the Soviet era, but out of fear that the masses will find