Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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CATHEDRALS, MONASTERIES & CONVENTS
Christ the Savior Cathedral
(Khram Khrista Spasitelya) This is not the oldest
church in town, nor is it historically revered. It is the largest and the most expensive,
though, and an unmistakable part of the skyline. It occupies such a key geographical and
political spot in today's Moscow that it warrants a visit. Every stage of its existence has
invited controversy. Originally built over 5 decades in the 19th century, the cathedral was
a monument to Russia's victory over Napoleon, and to the gilded yet modernizing archi-
tecture of the day. Stalin ordered it razed in the 1930s and made plans for an immense
Palace of Soviets in its place. Those plans never materialized, and the site became a large
and popular indoor/outdoor swimming pool. In 1994, Moscow Mayor Yury Luzhkov
drained the pool and ordered a speedy reconstruction of the cathedral. The finished prod-
uct boasts staggering domes plated with gold alloy and clifflike white walls rising above the
Moscow River, and it houses huge Orthodox church conferences and many official ceremo-
nies. Lighter and airier than most Orthodox churches, it attracts some believers but turns
away more traditional ones. A chronicle of Russian military victories is engraved on the
marble panels leading to the main hall. Set aside about an hour to see the cathedral.
15 Volkhonka.
&
495/637-1157
. www.xxc.ru. Free admission. Individual tours 300-900 rubles depend-
ing on length and whether you need English translation, at ticket booth on Soimonovsky Proyezd. Daily
8am-8pm. Metro: Kropotkinskaya
Novodevichy Convent & Cemetery
(Novodevichy Monastyr i Kladbishche)
If you visit only one holy site in Moscow, make it this one. The convent, founded in
1524, became, over ensuing eras, a carefully arranged complex of churches in a variety of
architectural styles. The stark white walls and gold-trimmed green domes of the
Cathe-
dral of Our Lady of Smolensk
complement the deep red of the
Gate Church of the
Intercession,
the two main churches in the complex. The fortress-like walls surrounding
the convent reflect one of its key early purposes: to sequester daughters, sisters, and
wayward wives of the nobility. Ivan the Terrible and Peter the Great sent their female foes
here, which meant the convent enjoyed generous funding from the Kremlin. Today that
disturbing page in the convent's history is largely forgotten. It is a haven of tranquillity,
its adjoining pond and shaded paths a world away from the crowded rush of the rest of
town. Don't miss the
cemetery
down the hill behind the convent. Considered Moscow's
most prestigious burial site since the 18th century, it bears the unique and artful grave-
stones of many of Russia's literary, musical, and scientific heroes—and more recently,
modern Russia's first president, Boris Yeltsin. Pick up a map at the entrance to locate the
graves of writers Anton Chekhov, Nikolai Gogol, and Mikhail Bulgakov; composer
Dmitry Shostakovich; filmmaker Sergei Eisenstein; and Nikita Khrushchev, the only
Soviet leader not buried at the Kremlin wall (because he died in disgrace instead of in
office). Mikhail Gorbachev will likely choose Novodevichy as his resting place; his wife
Raisa is already here. Note also the curious grave-top monuments, such as a tank (for a
World War II commander), a telephone (for a communications minister), and the tragi-
comic statue of circus clown Yuri Nikulin. The cemetery is a bit of a walk from the
nearest metro station through an otherwise unremarkable neighborhood. Reserve this
trip for a good-weather day, and allow 2 or 3 hours.
Novodevichy Proyezd.
&
499/246-8526.
Admission to the grounds free; a combined ticket including
churches and exhibits 150 rubles. Cemetery admission 50 rubles. Cathedrals may be closed to tourists on
Easter and feast days. Wed-Sun 10am-5pm. Metro: Sportivnaya.
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