Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
142
Basil's is essentially a union of nine different churches and styles, and nine different
chapels, beneath nine domes, each unique in size, form, and color. From the upper-floor
windows you get a close-up view of the pilasters and a broad view of the Moscow River.
You should be able to see everything in an hour or less.
Red Square.
&
495/698-3304.
Admission 100 rubles adults, 50 rubles students and children over 7.
Daily 11am-5pm. Metro: Ploshchad Revolutsii.
Lenin's Mausoleum
(Mavzolei Lenina) Yes, the embalmed body of the founder of the
Soviet state is still on display in a mausoleum on Red Square. The stark Constructivist
pyramid of red granite and gray and black labradorite was built in 1930, 6 years after
Vladimir Lenin's death. The lines of pilgrims and solemn changing of the guard are long
gone, and threats to bury him—as he wished for himself—have surfaced every few years
since his USSR collapsed in 1991. In the meantime, the curious and a few faithful are
shepherded through the cool, dim chamber by guards who make sure no one stands still
long enough to ask any questions. The whole visit takes barely a few minutes. Equally
fascinating are the gravestones of other Soviet icons along the Kremlin wall, which can be
accessed only by visiting the mausoleum. Admirers still heap flowers on Stalin's grave daily.
Because Nikita Khrushchev left office in disgrace, he is the only dead Soviet leader not
buried here. Other remains here include those of Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space; and
American journalist John Reed. Cameras and bulky backpacks are forbidden; they must be
left at the bag check by the Borovitsky gate to the Kremlin, a good 5-minute walk away. It's
easiest to visit here right after seeing the Kremlin, and then go get your bags.
Red Square. No phone. Free admission. Tues-Thurs, Sat, and Sun 10am-1pm. Metro: Ploshchad Revolut-
sii, Teatralnaya, or Okhotny Ryad.
National Historical Museum
(Nationalny Istorichesky Muzei) The intricately pan-
eled and turreted crimson building on Red Square is the official repository of Russian
historic artifacts, though Tretyakov Gallery (reviewed in the “Major Museums” section
later in this chapter) and the Kremlin provide richer pictures of the country's 1,200-year-
old history. The Historical Museum reopened in the 1990s after renovation, and hawkers
lure tourists in from the throngs on Red Square. The exhibits are labeled in Russian only,
and maps and tours in other languages are scarce. An audioguide in English is promised
to arrive soon. Several exhibit halls remain closed to the public. The whole museum takes
about an hour to tour. It's an impressive collection of garments, manuscripts, and weap-
onry from centuries past. The restaurant
1 Red Square
(p. 117), on the second floor, is
a deluxe dining choice in a prime location.
1 Red Square.
&
495/692-3731.
www.shm.ru. Admission 200 rubles, 75 rubles students and children.
Photo, video permission 100 rubles. Mon and Wed-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Closed first Mon
each month. Metro: Okhotny Ryad, Ploshchad Revolutsii, or Teatralnaya.
7
Alexander Gardens
(Alexandrovsky Sad) This green strip beneath the Kremlin's
north wall was once a river that further isolated the fortress from its enemies. Now it's
perfect for a peaceful stroll and perhaps a taste of ice cream or the savory pies sold along
the path (avoid the hot dogs). At the gardens' entrance is an elegant marble monument of
a helmet abandoned next to a flame. This
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
was erected to
honor those killed in World War II, and is surrounded by plaques to Soviet cities honored
for their valiance and suffering at Nazi hands. The tomb, and the surrounding gardens, are
often graced by newlyweds making a tour of Moscow sights after exchanging rings. The
gardens run parallel to Mokhovaya Ulitsa, between the street and the Kremlin wall.
Metro: Ploshchad Revolutsii, Teatralnaya, or Okhotny Ryad.
