Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
and the cheap, handy, and recommended self-service restaurant
Jardim da Manga.
Keep
going uphill along the busy Rua Olímpio Nicolau di Fernandes past the big post office to
the...
Mercado Municipal:
This modern covered market is fun to explore and great for
gathering picnic supplies (Mon-Sat 8:00-14:00 but some stalls open later, closed Sun).
It's clean and hygienic, but maintains the colorful appeal of an old farmers' market. See
the “salt of the earth” in the faces of the women selling produce (their men are off in
the fields...or the bars). These ladies aren't shy about trying to sell their goods, even to
tourists. For a sandwich and glass of wine for less than €4, head to the Bar do Mercado
Requinte at the end of the ground floor. Check out the photos of the old market on the
wall, and then go upstairs for bread, more meat, and veggies. Follow your nose to the
glass doors at the far end, with all the fresh fish and dried cod. The Portuguese are the
world's biggest cod eaters, but because cod is no longer found in nearby waters, the local
favorite is imported from Norway. To the Portuguese, cod
(bacalhau)
tastes much better
dried and salted than fresh. This section housed the original market—you can recognize
the wrought-iron work from the photos you've just seen on the ground floor at the bar.
• From the fish hall, swim outside and find the sleek city elevator.
