COIMBRA - Portugal - page 287

Elevador do Mercado: Take the elevator/funicular to the top of the hill (€1.60/trip if
you pay elevator operator; covered by bus passes described on here ; elevator runs Mon-
Sat 7:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00). Don't insert your ticket in the machine until the elev-
ator operator is there.
The lift whisks you up the long, steep hill (stop midway to transfer to funicular, no
need to validate ticket again), offering commanding views of Coimbra en route. At the
top, exit to the right and head uphill, following signs to Universidade. Fifty yards up
the cobbled lane, at the first intersection and crest of the hill, you'll find a fraternity
house called Real República Corsários das Ilhas (“Royal Commune of the Island Pir-
ates”). Notice the prominent skull-and-crossbones graffiti on the wall, linking McDon-
ald's and the G8 (group of the eight most powerful countries). Look around for other ex-
amples of graffiti. These small university frat houses, called repúblicas, are communes
that traditionally house about a dozen students from the same region or provincial town.
While some are highly cultured, the rowdier ones are often decorated with plunder from
their pranks—stolen traffic signs and so on—giving rise to the local saying, “At night,
many things happen in Coimbra.”
• Walk three blocks on past the Machado de Castro Museum (on right, described on
here ) to the big, fascist-designed university square (Praça da Porta Férrea). The Iron
Gate entry to the old university is on your right.
University: Explore the university (described later, under “Sights in Coimbra”), then
continue this town walk.
• Leave the university—pass back out through the Iron Gate, turn left immediately and
take the steps down into the old town (following the steep lanes toward the old cathedral).
As you wander, notice the white-paper diamonds in the windows—they indicate that
there's a student room available for rent. Continuing on, you'll come to the old cathed-
ral (Sé Velha, described later, under “Sights in Coimbra”). Facing the cathedral is the re-
commended Restaurante Trovador, offering fado performances every night in summer
(reservations essential for fado). The colorful little Café Sé Velha (great for a quick and
tasty €9 lunch), on the corner immediately below the cathedral, is tiled with fine, tradi-
tional scenes from Coimbra. From there, a blue line on the cobbles marks the route of the
electric minibus. Take the steep stairway leading down (past the public WCs) to the Rua
Quebra Costas, the “Street of Broken Ribs.” At one time, this lane had no steps, and lit-
erally was the street of broken ribs. During a strong rain, this becomes a river. The lane's
many shops show off the fine local blue-and-white ceramic work called faiança.
• Half-way down the steps on your right, take a peek into the...