LISBON - Portugal - page 116

Restaurante SolardosPresuntos keeps the theater crowd happily fed with meat and
seafood specialties. Its upstairs is more elegant, while the downstairs—with a colorful,
open kitchen—is touristy and rowdy. Photos of Lisbon's celebrities and politicians who
eat here enliven the walls of this family-run establishment. Pedro and his hardworking
gang offer fine service and reliably wonderful food, making this my favorite fine meal in
town. Reservations are smart (€15-25 meals, big splittable portions, great and affordable
wine list presented on an iPad, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, at the
top end of Rua das Portas de Santo Antão at #150, tel. [phone]).
On Avenida da Liberdade (North of Rossio)
(See “Central Lisbon Restaurants” map, here .)
Cervejaria Ribadouro is a popular splurge with locals because of its quality meat and
shellfish (€15-20 meals, daily 12:00-24:00, Avenida da Liberdade 155, at intersection
with Rua do Salitre, Metro: Avenida, tel. [phone]). Note that seafood prices are listed
by weight; the waiter will help you determine the cost of a portion. To limit the cost, write
down the number of grams you want. For a fun, quick €10 per-person meal, order a small
beer, 100 grams (about a quarter of a pound) of percebes (barnacles), and pão torrado
com manteiga (toasted bread with butter).
On and South of Rossio
(See “Central Lisbon Restaurants” map, here .)
Pastelaria Suíça (SWEE-sah) provides a serviceable, air-conditioned, and comfortable
place for a no-stress meal. It's popular with locals despite its surly waitstaff and relatively
high prices. Along with pastry, they serve light meals, sandwiches, salads, and fruit cups
(daily 7:00-21:00, least expensive at the bar, reasonable at inside tables, pricey at outside
tables overlooking Rossio or Praça da Figueira, located between the two squares with en-
trances and terraces on each—choose sun or shade, tel. [phone]).
Confeitaria Nacional has been proudly satisfying sweet-tooths for 180 years, and
was once the favorite of Portuguese royalty. Stop in for a tasty pastry downstairs. Or,
for a peaceful and inexpensive three-course lunch (Mon-Fri 12:00-16:00 only), go up-
stairs, where you'll choose between a €7 meal in the cafeteria or a €9 meal with service
and Old World sophistication in the elegant dining room (smaller snacks and sandwiches
at all hours, Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, closed Sun, Praça da Figueira 18, tel. [phone] or
213-243-000).