Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Lost in Esplanada Bar
is understandably popular, with a Zen-like terrace, a mellow
teahouse interior, a splash of Pakistan, and a view patio. The hippies who run this place
brag they have the third-best view in Lisbon. They offer tasty light meals, soup, salads,
and ommmm-my-goodness cocktails (a few blocks uphill from the funicular, at Rua D.
Pedro V 56, mobile 917-759-282).
TheIndependenteRestaurant,
youthful and classy, serves modern Portuguese dishes
from a creative, accessible menu to an in-the-know crowd in one big woody, candlelit
ground-floor dining hall. While a bit of a splurge, it's run by a hostel (reservations smart,
Rua São Pedro de Alcântara 81, tel. 213-461-381).
Pavilhao Chines Bar
has only sandwiches and is no place to come for a real meal,
but it's one of the most entertaining pubs in town, with a sexy, museum-like, belle époque
interior. With no live music and a long list of cocktails and ports, it's a great place to
talk (daily from 18:00, a couple blocks uphill from funicular at Rua D. Pedro V 89, tel.
213-424-729).
Lisbon's “Eating Lane” (North of Rossio)
(See “Central Lisbon Restaurants” map,
here
.)
Rua das Portas de Santo Antão is Lisbon's “eating lane”—a galaxy of eateries, many spe-
cializing in seafood (off the northeast corner of Rossio). While the waiters are pushy and
it's all very touristy, the lane—lively with happy eaters—is enjoyable to browse. This is a
fine spot to down a beer, snack on some snails, and watch people go by.
The small side street, Travessa de Santo Antão, is famous for its family-friendly diner-
style restaurants. They each crank out tasty, roasted chicken (paint on some spicy Afric-
an
piri-piri
sauce) and fries, for eating inside or out.
Bonjardim
(with two branches on
either side of the street) has the best chicken.
Casa do Alentejo Restaurante
specializes in Alentejo cuisine and fills an old,
second-floor dining hall. The Moorish-looking building is a cultural and social center for
people from the traditional southern province of Portugal (see jokes in Évora chapter,
here
) living in Lisbon. While the food is mainly hearty and simple (like the Alentejanos),
the ambience is fabulous. It's a good place to try regional specialties such as pork with
clams, or the super-sweet, eggy almond dessert called
charcada
. The full-bodied Alentejo
red wine is cheap and solid (€10 two-course daily lunch special, €10-15 main dishes at
dinner, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:30, slip into the closed-looking building at Rua das
Portas de Santo Antão 58 and climb stairs to the right, tel. 213-469-231). On the ground
floor, the
Casa do Alentejo Bar
serves cheap bar food and wine (same hours as restaur-
ant, spicy meat plates, hearty cheese, other tapas). They host folk dancing in the grand
ballroom (often Sat at 15:00).