The West - Madagascar - page 626

Katsepy Katsepy is a fishing village across the bay from Mahajanga, which is reached by
a ferry (one or two crossings each day) that takes 45 minutes. Katsepy is the starting point
for exploring the wildlife areas to the southwest of Mahajanga.
For at least three decades there has been only one reason to go to Katsepy as a day trip:
to dine at ChezChabaud ( m 032 07 067 34 ). I still go weak at the knees remembering my
meal there in 1984, while researching the first edition of this topic. There is accommoda-
tion here too in the form of comfy en-suite bungalows.
Amborovy Beach This sandy beach also known as Petite Plage, 5-7km north of town, is
popular with locals for weekend outings. A couple of kilometres further north is another
good beach, Grand Pavois, near to the Cirque Rouge.
There is upper-range accommodation at Amborovy Beach: Zaha Motel ( 62 225 55/
237 20; e [e-mail] ; €€€€) has 12 double rooms and 22 family bungalows
with TV, air conditioning, Wi-Fi (not free) and en-suite hot water. The mid-range Dohatel
( 62 224 91; m 034 13 090 06/034 01 153 71; [e-mail] ; www.dohatel-mada-
gascar.com ; €€€) in the same area has some rooms with air conditioning. And reader Sun-
niva Gylver recommends the Convent Sacré Cœur (€), which has rooms from 6,000Ar.
Cirque Rouge About 10km from Mahajanga and 4km past the airport (as the crow flies),
this is a canyon ending in an amphitheatre of red-, beige- and lilac-coloured rock eroded
into strange peaks and spires. It is a beautiful and dramatic spot and - with its stream of
fresh water running to the nearby beach - makes an idyllic camping place. For a day visit,
give yourself at least an hour to look around. Late afternoon is best, when the low sun sets
the reds and mauves alight.
FortAmbohitrombikely Thisimpressivefort,20kmsoutheastofMahajanga,wasbuilton
the highest point in the region in 1824 by King Radama I. It is worth a visit for the views
and sense of history.
Antsanitia ( 62 023 34/911 00/913 63; m 032 07 600 50/032 05 196 90; e antsani-
[e-mail] ; www.antsanitia.com ; €€€€€) This upper-range place, about an hour's
drive north of Mahajanga, is much praised by readers. The hotel, restaurant, location, and
beach are all excellent. And as a bonus the hotel works with the local community and tries
to be ecologically responsible. The hotel arranges transfers from Mahajanga, but otherwise
you will need a 4x4 as the road is bad.
La Dune offers budget accommodation nearby (contact details as for Tranquilllle on
Click Here ) .