Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
across the rivers, or you may end up walking for hours and wading rivers or finding a
pirogue totake youacross. Youshouldget local advice before setting out,especially ifyou
have a lot of luggage to carry or are on a tight schedule.
MANOMPANA Thischarmingandcharacterfulvillage,oncethedeparturepointforboats
to Ile Sainte Marie, is a peaceful destination in itself. There is good surfing and swimming
in the area and an attractive lagoon at Pointe Titingue. A French volunteer-run cultural
centreforlocalchildren,called LaMarmailleàLaCase ( http://marmaillealacase.free.fr ) ,
makes for an inspiring visit.
Ambodiriana Forest is a small reserve protecting 65ha of lowland rainforest, home to
eight resident lemur species and administered by ADEFA ( www.adefa-madagascar.org ) .
A visit to the forest costs 5,000Ar per person plus 5,000Ar for the obligatory guide. There
are three dramatic waterfalls connected by well-marked paths including a botanical trail. A
day visit is quite possible but there are basic camping facilities for those wishing to stay a
night.
They also run fascinating tours of the village during which you will learn about ship-
building, clove distillation and local customs. You will see the baker's oven, coffee being
dried on mats, vanilla pods drying in glass Coca-Cola bottles, sea cucumbers drying on
mats before being shipped to Japan for sushi, and witness production of betsabetsa , a bit-
ter local alcoholic drink made in a week using sugarcane juice. Visit ADEFA's office in
Manompana for more information.
Where to stay and eat
Chez Wen-Ki's (5 bungalows) Secluded spacious beachfront bungalows with bucket
showers. Bikes for hire. 'Meals were superb, bungalows delightful & M Wen-Ki the most
enchanting & courteous gentleman imaginable' (FRB). €
Chez Lou Lou (6 bungalows) Central beachfront bungalows; clean with good toilets.
Great seafood. €
Mahle On Mahle Point, a beautiful oceanfront place lkm from the village. Run by af-
fable brother & sister. Excellent food. Good diving & lovely forest nearby. €
MANOMPANA TO MAROANTSETRA
The road north can be an adventure in itself: 'Intending to set out on foot one morning I
found myself in the back of a vehicle bound for a nearby village and was subsequently
transferredtoalorry.TheexperienceofwatchinghappyandunconcernedMalagasycutting
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