Toamasina and the Northeast - Madagascar - page 483

HEADINGWEST Between Mahambo and Fenoarivo Atsinanana is a road leading inland
to Vavatenina, where there is basic accommodation in bungalows, and on to Anjahambe.
This town marks the beginning (or end) of the Smugglers' Path to Lake Alaotra (see Click
Here ) .
FENOARIVO ATSINANANA (FÉNÉRIVE EST) Beyond Mahambo is the former cap-
ital of the Betsimisaraka Empire. There is a clove factory in town which distils the essence
of cloves, cinnamon and green peppers for the perfume industry. They are not geared up
for tourist visits but will show you round if you ask.
There are several basic hotels, including Belle Rose Bungalows ( 57 300 38; €€) on
the road leading to the hospital, an excellent Chinese bakery, and a BOA bank - the last on
the route north until Mananara.
VOHILENGO From Fenoarivo a road leads west to Vohilengo. This makes a pleasant di-
version for those with their own transport, especially during the lychee season. Clare Her-
mans 'arrived at the start of a six-week lychee bonanza. Along the road to Vohilengo were
pre-arranged pick-up points where the pickers would bring their two 10kg panniers. Vo-
hilengo is a small village, perfumed with the scent of cloves laid out to dry'.
TAMPOLO FORESTRY STATION About 10km north of Fenoarivo is this small
forestry station. It is managed by the agricultural branch of Tana university ( www.essa-
forets.org ) and partly supported by the Lemur Conservation Foundation
( www.lemurreserve.org ) . There is an interpretive museum and paths into the coastal forest
that can be taken with guides, offering a good opportunity to see some of Madagascar's
most endangered flora: the littoral forest.
A project has just been completed to build an environmental classroom, Centre En-
viroKidz, which will double as a community centre.
SOANIERANA-IVONGO Familiarly known as 'S-Ivongo', this little town is the main
starting point for the boat to Ile Sainte Marie. It is also the end of the tarred road.
S-Ivongo has only the most basic accommodation. Les Escales ( m 032 43 174 63; €) is
well located for the boat departure point and RelaisSainteMarie has pleasant bungalows.
CONTINUING NORTH (IF YOU DARE!)
From S-Ivongo the road is unreliable to say the least. As fast as bridges are repaired they
wash away again. You may have a fairly smooth taxi-brousse ride with ferries taking you