Slovakia - Eastern Europe - page 622

Verdict One of a number of generic cafes and drinks places that line the streets of
the Old Town. This place is recommendable for its location, at the center of the
action, and for a great terrace in summer. The little bar inside can get quite popular
after 11pm. Panská 6. www.verdict.sk.
4 Western Slovakia & the Malá Fatra
TRENCÍN
100km (60 miles) N of Bratislava
Tr e n c ín (www.trencin.sk) is a welcoming town that has three things going for it: a pic-
ture-perfect, brooding castle; a small grouping of welcoming hotels and pensions at
each price point; and a positive attitude. As recently as a few years ago, the town was
in steep decline, with its major textile industries facing stiff competition from cheap
Asian imports. That's changed as the town has begun to embrace the future and play
up some of its cultural attributes. Tren c ín is now host to arguably the best open-air
alternative and independent music festival in the country, the Pohoda festival
(www.pohodafestival.sk) each July.
The city's history dates back to Roman times, when it served as a northern garrison
town to protect the empire from Germanic tribes. On rocks below the castle, a fasci-
nating Roman inscription dating from the year A . D . 179 and ordered by Emperor Mar-
cus Aurelius, celebrates a Roman victory over the hordes (you can see it from the first
floor of the Hotel Tatra). In the Middle Ages, the town grew in importance because of
it position on the Váh River, astride one of the main trading routes linking the Baltic
and Mediterranean seas. Tren c ín achieved arguably its greatest place in history in the
early 14th century as the seat of a renegade kingdom declared by one Matú sC ák. C ák,
who made the castle his residence, proclaimed himself the king of the Váh and the
Tatra Mountains. His kingdom ended with his death 20 years later in 1321.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE From Bratislava, the drive takes about 90 minutes in light traf-
fic. Tren c ín is also easily reached by train or bus from Bratislava or Z ilina. Regular bus
service links the city to Brno in the Czech Republic and points west. Tren c ín's bus and
train stations are next to each other and situated about a 10-minute walk through a
park from the center of town.
VISITOR INFORMATION Tr e n c ín's Tourist Information Office (Sládkovi c ova;
& 032/743 - 3505; daily Apr 15-Oct 15 Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat-Sun 8am-4pm; Oct
16-Apr 14 Mon-Fri 8am-5pm) is situated just off the main square. The helpful staff
can provide a local map, information on the sights, as well as good advice on hotels and
restaurants. While the office doesn't book rooms, they keep a list of accommodations
and can make a few helpful phone calls.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
Outside of mid-July and the annual Pohoda music festival, you shouldn't have any
problem booking a room. Eating is a different story. There's not much aside from the
(very decent) restaurants at the Tatra and pod Hradom hotels and a bunch of pizze-
rias and coffee bars along the main square.
Giuseppe The ubiquitous pizzeria on the main square in this case is actually not a bad
choice for a simple and cheap meal. The menu includes all of the pizza combinations