Slovakia - Eastern Europe - page 621

victorious Napoleon Bonaparte and Holy Roman Emperor Francis I signed the “Treaty
of Pressburg” following the Battle of Austerlitz (now “Slavkov,” near the Moravian city
of Brno). You can tour the inside of the palace; the highlights include the Chamber of
Mirrors (Zrkadlová sie n ), as well as a valuable collection of tapestries.
Primaciálne nám. & 02/5935-6111. Tues-Sun 10am-5pm.
Museum of Jewish Culture (Múzeum Zidovskej Kultúry) For centuries,
Bratislava was one of the most important centers of Jewish scholarship in central
Europe. The area below the castle—now covered over by the highway—eventually
became the Jewish quarter, and was once home to as many as 20 schools and syna-
gogues. The quarter survived largely intact until World War II, during which the pup-
pet Slovak government—following the Nazi lead—deported the Jews to the death
camps. The Communist government after the war then paved over the remains (in
this case, by building a highway over them). The photographs and documents on dis-
play here tell the story.
Zidovská 17. & 02/5441-8507. Admission 200 Sk ($6.70/£3.70). Sun-Fri 11am-4:30pm.
SHOPPING
Bratislava, as a modern European capital, has everything you might want or need. In
terms of souvenirs, there are a couple of unique shops worth visiting. Galéria Don-
ner (Klobu c nícka 4; & 02/5443 - 3753 ) specializes in visual arts, paintings, and
graphics from the 1950s to the 1980s, including an interesting collection of Commu-
nist-era paintings and sketches. If you're looking for more traditional folk art, includ-
ing textiles, lace, and ceramics, try Úluv (Nám. SNP 12; & 02/5292 - 3802; www.
uluv.sk). Ten Senses (Ventúrska 16; & 0903/388 - 864 ) is a modern gift shop in the
Old Town that combines commerce with fair-trade community values of social devel-
opment. Here you'll find Slovak ceramics and textiles sharing the shelf with other
quirky gifts from around the world.
BRATISLAVA AFTER DARK
As the nation's capital, Bratislava is the center of Slovak culture. The Slovak National
Theater (Slovenské národné divadlo) (Gorkého 4; & 02/5443 - 3890; www.snd.sk)
maintains an active program of high-quality opera and ballet in season (Sept-June).
The Reduta (Palackého 2; & 02/5920 - 8233 ), just next door, is an excellent venue for
classical concerts. You can buy tickets at the box office, or ask at the tourist informa-
tion office. To find out what's on, pick up a copy of Kam do mesta, the city's free
monthly, available at tourist information offices and bars and restaurants. The Eng-
lish-language weekly The Slovak Spectator devotes two or three pages to culture and is
a good source for what's happening.
As for culture of the drinking and clubbing variety, there's no shortage of late-night
bars, cafes, and music clubs. Most of the action is concentrated in and around the Old
Town, and typically starts around 10pm or 11pm and lasts until 1am or 2am.
Charlie Centrum An all in-in-one alternative movie house, pub, and club. If you
get bad weather, check out the excellent movie program here, and the films are usu-
ally shown in their original language. Spitálska 4. & 02/5296 - 8994.
Sparx A huge disco, cocktail bar, and dance club occupying the site where the leg-
endary pub “Mamut” once stood. The club of the moment. Cintorínska 32. & 0903/403 - 097.
www.sparx.sk.