Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 368

ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Te n trains depart daily from Budapest's Déli Station; four of
these are InterCity trains, which are quicker than the so-called “fast” trains. The fare
is 4,060 Ft ($20/£10). On an InterCity train the journey takes about 2 1 ⁄ 2 hours and
you are required to pay an additional fee for a seat reservation. On a “fast” train (gyors) ,
the trip is around 3 hours, but you don't need a reservation.
If you are driving from Budapest, take the M6 south for approximately 3 hours
(the distance is 210km/130 miles).
VISITOR INFORMATION The best source of information in Pécs is Tourin-
form, at Széchenyi tér 9 ( & 72/213-315; www.tourinform.hu). Tourinform is open
April through October, Monday through Friday from 9am to 7pm and on weekends
from 9am to 6pm; in winter Monday through Friday from 8am to 4pm. Tourinform
can provide a list of local private-room accommodations, though you'll have to reserve
the room yourself.
If you want to have a room reserved for you, visit Mecsek Tourist, at Széchenyi tér
1 ( & 72/513-372; www.mecsektours.hu). The office is open Monday through Friday
from 9am to 5pm; and on Saturday from 9am to 1pm in summer.
A free weekly magazine called Pécsi Est contains lots of useful information; pick it
up anywhere. You can also get city information online at www.pecs.hu .
EXPLORING OLD PÉCS
Today the old section of Pécs captivates visitors. One of Hungary's most pleasing cen-
tral squares is here— Széchenyi tér , which is set on an incline with a mosque
at the top and a powerful equestrian statue of János Hunyadi at the bottom. Hunyadi
defeated the Turks in the 1456 Battle of Nándorfehérvár (present-day Belgrade), thus
forestalling their northward advance by nearly a century. Grand pastel-colored build-
ings line the cobblestone streets that border the square.
Old Pécs is known for its many museums and galleries; after Budapest, Pécs is per-
haps the biggest center of the arts in Hungary. The large student population con-
tributes greatly to this creative state of affairs. We list several museums below, but there
are many more, some containing works by contemporary and student artists. Pécs is
also home to the Zsolnay ceramics factory. Zsolnay porcelain, though lesser known
internationally than its rival Herend, may be more popular domestically. The Zsolnay
Museum, also listed below, is a must-see in Pécs.
MUSEUMS
Jakawali Hassan Museum This museum is housed inside a 16th-century mosque
that has the distinction of being the only mosque in Hungary with a minaret still
intact (though, unfortunately, you can't ascend the minaret as you can Eger's mosque-
less minaret). Like the much larger mosque up in Széchenyi tér, this mosque was con-
verted to a church after the Turks were driven from Pécs; however, in the 1950s the
mosque was restored to its original form. The museum's main attraction is the build-
ing itself, although various Muslim religious artifacts are on display as well.
Rákóczi út 2. & 72/313-853. Admission 150 Ft (70¢/40p). Apr-Sept Thurs-Sun 10am-6pm (closed 1-2pm for
lunch). Closed Oct-Mar.
Tivadar Csontváry Museum Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka (1853-1919), today
one of Hungary's most beloved artists, remained unknown during his lifetime, scorned
by the art establishment. His mystical post-Impressionist landscapes suggest a unique