Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 369

vision of the world—one that is both tormented and idyllic, an atmosphere attributed
by some to the artist's schizophrenia. Hungarians like to point out that some time after
Csontváry's death, Picasso saw an exhibition of his work and referred to him as the
“other” artistic genius of the 20th century. This little museum houses an impressive
collection of his work. Across the street from the museum, in the park beneath Pécs
Cathedral, is a statue of Csontváry.
Janus Pannonius u. 11. & 72/310-544. Admission 600 Ft ($3/£1.55). Summer Tues-Sun 10am-6pm; winter
Tues-Sun 10am-4pm.
Victor Vasarely Museum The late Victor Vasarely, internationally known
father of “op art,” was born in the house that this museum now occupies. This is one
of two museums in the country devoted solely to Vasarely's work. While Vasarely's
fame was achieved abroad, Pécs proudly considers him a native son.
Kaptalan u. 3. & 72/324-822. Admission 600 Ft ($3/£1.55). Tues-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm.
Zsolnay Museum This is one of five museums on Kaptalan utca, Pécs's
“street of museums,” and you shouldn't miss it. The Zsolnay Museum displays some
of the best examples of Zsolnay porcelain, produced locally since 1852. There are
vases, plates, cups, figurines, and even ceramic paintings. Once you've seen the
museum, check out the Zsolnay fountain at the lower end of Széchenyi tér.
Kaptalan u. 2. & 72/324-822. Admission 700 Ft ($3.50/£1.80). Tues-Sat 10am-6pm, to 4pm in winter; Sun
10am-4pm.
HOUSES OF WORSHIP
Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim The largest Turkish structure still standing in
Hungary, this former mosque now houses a Catholic church. It was built in the late
16th century, during the Turkish occupation, on the site of an earlier church. The mix
of religious traditions is evident everywhere you look, and the effect is rather pleasing.
An English-language description of the building's history is posted on a bulletin board
on the left-hand wall.
At the top of Széchenyi tér. & 72/227-166. Free admission. High season Mon-Sat 10am-3pm, Sun 11:30am-3pm;
winter Mon-Sat 10am-2pm, Sun 11:30am-2pm.
Pécs Cathedral Dating from the 11th century, this four-towered cathedral has
been destroyed and rebuilt on several occasions. During the Turkish occupation it was
used as a mosque and sported a minaret. The neoclassical exterior is the work of the
early-19th-century architect Mihály Pollack. The interior remains primarily Gothic,
with some baroque additions and furnishings. Various paintings and murals by lead-
ing 19th-century artists Károly Lotz and Bertalan Székely are inside. Organ concerts
are performed in the cathedral throughout the year; inquire at the cathedral or at
Tourinform for the schedule.
The square in front of the cathedral—as well as the little park beneath it—is a pop-
ular gathering place, and occasionally the site of folk concerts or dances.
On Dóm tér. & 72/513-030. Cathedral admission (includes treasury and crypt) 800 Ft ($4/£2). Apr-Oct Mon-Sat
9am-5pm, Sun 1-5pm; Nov-Mar Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sun 1-4pm. The church is not open to the public during wed-
dings, which are often on Sat afternoons.
Pécs Synagogue Pécs's grand old synagogue is incongruously situated in what
is now one of the city's busiest shopping squares, Kossuth tér. Nevertheless, once
inside you'll find it to be a quiet, cool place far removed from the bustle outside. The