Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 359

church (the charter for which contains the first words ever written in Hungarian),
around whose remains the crypt of the current church was built. These remains
include the marble gravestone of King Andrew, who died in 1060; this is the sole
Hungarian royal tomb that remains in its original location. A resident Austrian-born
monk carved the exquisite wooden altar and pulpit in the 18th century. The frescoes
in the church are by three of Hungary's better-known 19th-century painters, whose
work can be viewed throughout the country: Károly Lotz, Bertalan Székely, and Lajos
Deák-Ébner.
Next door to the Abbey Church is the Tihany Museum ( & 87/448-650 ), housed
in an 18th-century baroque structure, like the church. The museum features exhibi-
tions on the surrounding region's history and culture. You pay a single entry fee of 500
Ft ($2.50/£1.30) for both the church and museum. Both are open daily from 9am to
5:30pm.
Tihany Village is also the site of the legendary Echo Hill, a scenic spot overlooking
the lake (near the Echo Restaurant), which is reached via a winding path that starts
from the left side of the Abbey Church. Voices on Echo Hill reverberate back from the
side of the church. See for yourself.
Some say the best ice cream on Lake Balaton is to be had at the shop on the road
between the Abbey Church and Echo Hill.
BADACSONY & SZIGLIGET
160km (100 miles) SW of Budapest
BADACSONY
Nestled in one of the most picturesque corners of Lake Balaton is Badacsony, an area
which includes four villages noted for their beautiful vistas and some the best wines of
Hungary. The Badacsony area is dotted with wine cellars, and the tradition of viticul-
ture and winegrowing dates from the Celtic and Roman times. Other than wine tast-
ing, Badacsony boasts walking trails where you can study the diverse basalt forms and
the former quarry walls. You'll also find a 4km-long (2.5-mile) circular trail, starting
from the Kisfaludy House on the southern side of Badacsony Hill. Contact Botanikai
tanösvény Badacsony ( & 87/461-069; www.bfnpi.hu) for guided tours.
One of the better-known vintners in Hungary is Huba Szeremley, whose Badacsony
wines have consistently been winners in Italy, France, and Hungary. The best way to find
out about Szeremley's regular wine tastings is to visit his restaurant, Szent Orbán Borház
és Étterem, Badacsonytomaj, Kisfaludy S. u. 5 ( & 87/432-382; www.szeremley.com),
open daily from noon to 10pm.
The Borbarátok Panzió , Badacsonytomaj, Római út. 78 ( & 87/471-000;
www.borbaratok.hu), is a family-operated restaurant and hotel. They serve traditional
Hungarian fare and also offer a wide variety of programs including wine tasting, har-
vest, fishing, and walking tours. Main courses at the restaurant run from 1,200 Ft to
2,700 Ft ($6-$14/£3.10-£7). The restaurant is open daily 11:30am to 11pm in high
season, and in low season, daily 11:30am to 10pm.
SZIGLIGET
Halfway between Tihany and Keszthely is the lovely village of Szigliget (pronounced
Sig -lee-get). If you are as taken as we were by the thatched-roof houses, the lush vineyards,
and the sunny Mediterranean feel of Szigliget, you might consider spending the night.
There are also the ubiquitous ZIMMER FREI signs indicating the presence of a private room,