Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 360

Kids

An Excursion to the Thermal Lake in Hévíz

If you think the water of Lake Balaton is warm, just wait until you jump into
the lake at Hévíz (pronounced Hay -veez), a resort town about 8km (5
miles) northwest of Keszthely. Here you'll find the largest thermal lake in
Europe and the second largest in the world (the largest is in New Zealand),
covering 50,000 sq. m (538,195 sq. ft.).
The lake's water temperature seldom dips below 85°F to 90°F
(29°C-32°C)—even in the most bitter spell of winter. Consequently, people
swim in the lake year-round. You are bound to notice the huge numbers of
German travelers taking advantage of the waters. Hévíz has been one of
Hungary's leading spa resorts for over 100 years, and it retains a distinct
19th-century atmosphere.
While the lakeside area is suitable for ambling, no visit to Hévíz would be
complete without a swim. An enclosed causeway leads out into the center
of the lake, where locker rooms and the requisite services, including mas-
sage, float rental, and a palacsinta (crepe) bar are housed ( & 83/501-700 ).
You can easily reach Hévíz by bus from Keszthely. Buses depart every half-
hour or so from the bus station (conveniently stopping to pick up passen-
gers in front of the church on Fó tér). The entrance to the lake is just
opposite the bus station. You'll see a whimsical wooden facade and the
words TÓ FÜRDÓ (Bathing Lake). Tickets cost 900 Ft ($4.50/£2.30) for up to 3
hours or 1,600 Ft ($8/£4.10) for a day pass; however, the latter is not avail-
able from November through March. The lake is open daily 8:30am to 5pm
in the summer and 9am to 4:30pm in winter. Your ticket entitles you to a
locker; insert the ticket into the slot in the locker and the key will come out
of the lock. Keep the ticket until exiting, as the attendant needs to see it to
determine whether you've stayed a half-day or a full day.
There is no shallow water in the lake, so use discretion when bringing
children. However, there is a nice small playground on the grounds that
they will enjoy.
If you want to stay in the town of Héviz at a wellness hotel, in walking
distance of the lake, we recommend Rogner Hotel and Spa Therme ,
Lótusvirág u. ( & 83/501-700; www.lotustherme.com). Open year-round, this
230-room hotel is located in what feels like a secluded wooded area and
includes health cures, sports, medical treatments, and evening programs. A
double room in high season is 81

€ ($97).

along the roads. Sz ó l ó skert Panzió ( & 87/461-264 ), on Vadrózsa utca, might be the
best option, given its close proximity to the beach. Situated on the hillside amid lush ter-
races of grapes, the pension is open only in summer. A double is 9,000 Ft ($41/£23).
Szigliget is home to the fantastic ruins of the 13th-century Szigliget Castle, Kossuth
u. 54 ( & 87/461-069; www.szigligetivar.hu), which stand above the town on Várhegy
(Castle Hill). In the days of the Turkish invasions, the Hungarian Balaton fleet, protected