Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 305

foods. The decor here is as simple as it gets, with curtains and flowers literally drawn
on the walls in simple lines. Next to the popular cafe square at Liszt Ferenc Tér, the
atmosphere is homelike with Spanish or French music playing quietly in the back-
ground. Miklós Sulyok, the owner of this restaurant, is well known in the liberal cir-
cles of Budapest politics and has cohorts among the poets, writers, and artists of the
capital. This small two-floor restaurant has a very snug atmosphere and even serves
homemade bread. The menu changes on a daily basis, and let this be a surprise for the
visitors. We enjoyed a grilled Viking steak served with sausages and potatoes on a large
wooden plate. The chef makes a point of creating meals on a whim, based on what he
finds fresh at the market. Because of the home-style nature of this restaurant, some of
the plates may not always be available . . . but the chef will always be able to dream
something up for you.
VII. Kertész utca 48. & 1/342-8991. www.rajzoltetterem.hu. Soups 650 Ft-750 Ft ($3.25-$3.75/£1.70-£1.95);
starters 1,350 Ft-1,550 Ft ($6.75-$7.75/£3.50-£4); main courses 1,250 Ft-2,550 Ft ($6.25-$13/£3.20-£6.55). No
credit cards. Daily noon-midnight. Metro: Oktogon.

Menza HUNGARIAN CONTEMPORARY It's not surprising that this
restaurant is the brainchild of the same team that started exporting Communist-era
shoes to Europe as a kind of nostalgia item. The place, decorated in pastel orange and
greens, exudes creativity, which is probably why Hungarian experimental theater's true
star Anna-Maria Láng of the Krétakör group once recommended it as her top pick.
Run by the youngish entrepreneur Roland Radványi, the decor here is decidedly retro
and reminiscent of the '60s or '70s without the accompanying disco beats. The food,
on the other hand, is traditional but sumptuous. We started with the clear beef soup
with carrots, vegetables, and dumplings (surprisingly not served with horseradish).
The appetizers were more exciting: duck liver pâté or the adventuresome bone mar-
row—taken right out of the bone in front of you—served with a salad and garlic toast.
For the main course, we tried the exquisite chicken breast with plums and red onions,
as well as the divine duck breast with cabbage pasta: We recommend both.
VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 2. & 1/413-1482. Reservations recommended. Soups 560 Ft-690 Ft ($2.80-$3.45/£1.45-£1.80);
starters 850 Ft-1,190 Ft ($4.25-$5.95/£2.20-£3); main courses 1,390 Ft-2,790 Ft ($6.95-$14/£3.60-£7.15). AE, MC,
V. Daily 10am-midnight. Metro: Oktogon (Yellow line).
Salaam Bombay INDIAN “I wanted to create an Indian restaurant . . . but
in Europe, without emphasizing the typical statues, tandoori, or butter chicken . . .”
said the ambitious Firdosh Irani, the managing director of this recently opened restau-
rant. And this is exactly what he did. Irani came to Budapest in 1994 via New York,
and has been in the Indian cuisine business for over 30 years. And it shows, since this
restaurant probably gives you the best value that your money can buy in Budapest, as
well as a unique look at a more contemporary and varied Indian menu than we are
accustomed to. The interior of the restaurant was designed in India, and created in
Budapest. Psychedelic colors pervade the space, with shells, sand, and bamboo sticks
leaving it both exotic and sparsely contemporary at the same time. We started with the
unusual and sumptuous chicken momo, which was basically steamed dumplings
stuffed with chicken and served with a spicy sauce. The chicken rolls cooked in a
creamy almond sauce were also the favorite of this gourmet taster. As the food kept on
coming, the many varied hot and piquant tastes melded one after another into a
crescendo. Irani, who is emphatic and passionate about introducing a new look to
Indian dining, emphasizes that times are changing, and he is changing with them.

Value