Hungary - Eastern Europe - page 306

V. Mérleg u. 6. & 1/411-1252. www.salaambombay.hu. Soups 500 Ft-600 Ft ($2.50-$3/£1.30-£1.50); starters 700
Ft-950 Ft ($3.50-$4.75/£1.80-£2.45); main courses 1,500 Ft-3,200 Ft ($7.50-$16/£3.80-£8.20). MC, V. Daily
noon-3pm and 6-11:30pm. Metro: Deák tér (Red line).

Tom George HUNGARIAN CONTEMPORARY One of Budapest's
most trendy restaurants is frequented by both suave Hungarians and visitors as well,
particularly the English crowds. The palette runs from contemporary Indian to Japan-
ese, with a generous selection of sushi. The interior is spacious, the lighting atmos-
pheric, and the general feeling emanates “coolness.” If you are with a small group,
reserve the rounded tables at the far end of the restaurant that seat eight comfortably.
While we do recommend this restaurant, the only problem is the service. Despite a
high proportion of waiters, the service can be gruelingly slow and the waiters less than
enlightening. We started with an Indian lentil soup with creamy veggies, followed by a
fresh, light green salad. We finished our meal with a tender Argentine sirloin steak, and
watched enviously as a variety of beautiful-looking sushi was served to the next table!
V. Október 6 utca 8. & 1/266-3525. Reservations recommended. Soups 680 Ft-1,650 Ft ($3.40-$8.25/
£1.75-£4.25); starters 1,650 Ft-3,580 Ft ($8.25-$18/£4.25-£9.20); main courses 2,500 Ft-7,600 Ft ($13-$38/
£6.40-£20). AE, MC, V. Daily noon-midnight. Metro: Ferenciek tere (Blue line).
Inexpensive
Alföldi Kisvendégló HUNGARIAN TRADITIONAL The spicy, paprika-
laced tastes of the Hungarian Plain are presented well in this time-tested Pest eatery.
There is a comprehensive menu of traditional Hungarian fare, which is in English but
continues to have lots of funny mistakes. Our host explained, “We are not linguists!”
They concentrate on true Hungarian cuisine. When we visited, waiter Imre Bárkovits
was celebrating 31 years working at the restaurant. He recommended the classic
Szeged fisherman's soup, which is a meal in and of itself, containing three different
kinds of fish. They serve Balaton fish, white sea fish, lamb, and the age-old specialties,
chicken and veal paprikas. Choose between the rustic interior or weather permitting,
sidewalk tables on a busy road. The waiters are formal, and can be a bit old school. As
per tradition.
V. Kecskeméti u. 4. & 1/267-0224. Soup 720 Ft-950 Ft ($3.60-$4.75/£1.85-£2.45); starters 575 Ft-1,776 Ft
($3.40-$7.50/£1.50-£4.60); main courses 990 Ft-1,640 Ft ($4.95-$8.20/£2.55-£4.20). MC, V. Daily 11am-midnight.
Metro: Kálvin tér (Blue line).
BEYOND CENTRAL PEST
Very Expensive
Gundel HUNGARIAN TRADITIONAL Budapest's fanciest and
most famous restaurant, Gundel was reopened in 1992 under the auspices of the well-
known restaurateur George Lang, owner of New York's Café des Artistes. The Hun-
garian-born Lang, author of The Cuisine of Hungary, and his partner Ronald Lauder,
son of Estée Lauder and a one-time New York gubernatorial candidate, spared no
effort in attempting to re-create the original splendor for which Gundel, founded in
1894, achieved its international reputation. Located in City Park, Gundel has an opu-
lent dining room adorned with 19th-century paintings and a large, magnificent floral
centerpiece. The kitchen prides itself on preparing traditional dishes in an innovative
fashion. Lamb and wild-game entrees are house specialties. Gundel is also a place to
be seen, and it is a very serious tradition in Budapest: many notable characters or dig-
nitaries make a point of having at least one meal in Gundel's when visiting the Hun-
garian capital.

Overrated

Moments