Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 176

Villa Filipini This family-run place 10 minutes from Pore c opened in 2003
and is done in pine to resemble a rustic farmhouse. Mom serves breakfast and Dad is the
accountant/handyman, while their son manages the desk and waits on diners in the inn's
restaurant . Guest rooms are exceptionally clean and comfy, with French doors
that open to the terrace. Upper-floor suites have balconies. You can meet the family's
world-champion Istrian hunter in its home at the dog kennel behind the hotel.
Filipini 1B. & 052/463-200. www.istra.com/filipini. 8 units. From 46 € ($55) double; from 92 € ($110) suite. Rates
include breakfast. Half-board available. AE, DC, MC, V. Limited free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; tennis court;
bicycle rental; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, Internet access.
WHERE TO DINE
Dining in Old Town Pore c tends to be a one-note experience: Almost all the restau-
rants rely on pizza, pasta, and grilled seafood for their menu mainstays. If you want to
taste authentic grilled lamb or more unusual Istrian preparations, your best bet is to
get out of Old Town.
Very Expensive
Cardo SEAFOOD This classy terrace restaurant proudly displays its fish in an
outdoor ice case for all to see. A gnarled olive tree and soft lights surrounding the ter-
race create a romantic mood for diners at the outdoor tables, which are always full.
Try the salmon piquant or noodles with mussels, either of which is perfect with a glass
of Istrian Malvasia.
Cardo Maximus 6. Old Town. & 052/255-164. Entrees 35kn-330kn ($6-$57/£3.20-£30). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily Apr
1-Nov 1 noon-midnight.
Gostonica Istria Locals rave about the seafood at Gostonica Istria, a typical
indoor/outdoor coastal place where people-watching from the terrace is a side dish.
Istria's multi-language menu makes it easy to order. You'll get expertly prepared
authentic Istrian cuisine here such as minestrone, fu z i, and spiny lobster with noodles.
Service is accommodating even if the prices are a little high.
Msgr. Boze Milanovi5a 30. & 052/434-63. Fax [phone]. Entrees 65kn-190kn ($11-$33/£5.95-£17). AE, DC.
Daily noon-midnight.
Expensive
Gostonica Gurman SEAFOOD If you order lobster, your waiter will ask
you to choose one from a box of live crustaceans. It's not a gimmick for tourists but a
sincere effort to give diners the best meal possible. This tiny place in a square off the
harbor relies on fresh seafood, steak so tender you can cut it with a butter knife, and
one gregarious waiter who has so much energy you'll wonder if he can bilocate.
Trg Frane Supila 5. No phone. Entrees 40kn-130kn ($7-$23/£3.65-£12). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am-midnight.
Restaurant Villa Filipini ISTRIAN Pastas are handmade and the
kitchen is imaginative in this tiny restaurant in one of Istria's best rural small hotels.
Seating on the outdoor terrace gives the impression that you're dining in a forest. The
chef bases his dishes on what is fresh in the market and choices can include green gnoc-
chi with mixed cheese and walnut sauce, or ravioli filled with fresh cheese in herb but-
ter. Fish dishes and sauces are particular strengths, as are the excellent wine list and
creative sweet treats such as gelato on fresh cheese with sage honey and chocolate sauce.
Filipini 1B. & 052/463-200. www.istra.com/filipini. Entrees 40kn-150kn ($6.90-$26/£3.65-£14). AE, DC, MC, V.
Daily noon-11pm.

Value

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