Croatia - Eastern Europe - page 177

Moderate
Old Pub Cotton Club PIZZA/PASTA The burgundy awnings make Cotton
Club look like a tourist trap, but serious food is prepared here. Try the tortellini mille
voglie (with clams); or the tortellini with pr s ut, pumpkin, cream, and truffles. Pasta
and pizza are emphasized, including nine kinds of tagliatelle, 20 kinds of pizza, risot-
tos, good drinks, ice creams, and live music weekend evenings.
Trg Slobode 5. & 052/453-293. Fax [phone]. Entrees 40kn-110kn ($6.90-$19/£3.65-£10). No credit cards.
Daily 9am-1am.
Ulixes ISTRIAN The atmosphere at Ulixes is softened by indirect lighting on its
courtyard walls, olive trees, soft music, and cats that beg for handouts from diners.
When you order, however, stick with fish dishes, which are competently prepared, or
try a pasta like fu z i with game. Portions are on the small side, even for Croatia.
Decumanus 2. & 052/451-132. www.istra.com/ulixes. Entrees 40kn-110kn ($7-$19/£3.65-£10). DC, MC, V. Daily
noon-midnight.
Inexpensive
Barilla PIZZA/PASTA This casual restaurant is related to the pasta in the blue
box you can get in American grocery stores. There are (understandably) a huge pasta
menu and a few grilled meat/fish selections, but dine at Barilla for the 31 kinds of
pizza baked in a brick oven.
Eufrazijeva 26. & 052/452-742. Small pizza 40kn-60kn ($6.90-$10/£3.65-£5.50). DC, MC, V. Daily noon-
midnight.
Stari Saloon BISTRO/PIZZERIA This pizza joint is in a courtyard sur-
rounded by buildings, but that doesn't stop people from jamming the restaurant
nightly. Instead of sizing its pizza as small, medium, or large, Stari Saloon lists pie
diameters in centimeters. Extra-large pizzas are a whopping 75 centimeters (29 in.)
across and served on a wooden disk the size of a small tabletop. Pizza prices start at
55kn ($9.50/£5.15).
Ribarski Trg. & 052/453-228. Entrees 35kn-110kn ($6-$19/£3.20-£10). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 10am-11pm.
EXPLORING POREC
Pore c 's Old Town is small but packed with treasures, chief of which is the Euphrasius
Basilica and its stunning mosaics . The rest of Old Town's attractions pale in
comparison but are interesting enough to warrant a walk-through.
Euphrasian Basilica Complex UNESCO has put this collection of early
Christian and Byzantine architecture on its World Heritage List, and you should put
them on your “must-see” agenda, too. The basilica is the last of four churches that
were built one on top of the other on this site between the 4th and 6th centuries.
Besides the basilica, there are an atrium, a baptistery, a bell tower, and a bishop's palace
in the complex, which is entered through the arches of the atrium. Even if you aren't
into visiting churches, make an effort to see the complex's spectacular gem-studded
mosaics as well as the symbolic early Christian fish mosaic.
Summer daily 7:30am-8pm. Other times during Mass only. Bell tower daily 10am-7pm, 10kn ($1.75/90p).
Trg Marafor The remains of two Roman temples (Mars and Neptune) are the
highlight of Marafor, which once was the site of a Roman forum. Today, Marafor is
home to several sleek cocktail bars and jazz clubs such as Lapidarium, which is tucked

Value