Beijing - Beijing - page 443

NAMES
Some hútòng are christened after families, such as Zhaotangzi Hutong (Alley of the Zhao
Family). Other hútòng simply took their names from historical figures, temples or local
features, while a few have more mysterious associations, such as Dragon Whiskers Ditch
Alley ( Lóngxūgōu ). Many reflect the merchandise that was for sale at local markets, such
as Ganmian Hutong ( Dry Flour Alley), while some hútòng, such as Gongbei Hutong (Bow
Back Hutong), have names derived from their shape.
Other names reflect some of the rather unusual industries that coalesced around the For-
bidden City. Young Girl Lane was home to future concubines and Wet Nurse Lane was full
of young mothers who breastfed the imperial offspring; they were selected from around
China on scouting trips four times a year. Clothes Washing Lane was the residence of the
women who did the imperial laundry. The maids, having grown old in the service of the
court, were subsequently packed off to faraway places until their intimate knowledge of
royal undergarments was out of date and no longer newsworthy.
For a bird's-eye panorama of Běijīng's hútòng universe, view the diorama of the modern city at
the Běijīng Planning Exhibition Hall. The excellent Běijīng Cultural Heritage Protection
Center ( www.bjchp.org ) website has useful information on efforts to preserve the city's
remaining hútòng .
Some hútòng names conceal their original monickers, which were considered either too
unsavoury or unlucky, in homophones or similarly sounding words, or are euphemisms for
what actually went on there. Guancai Hutong , or 'Coffin Alley', was dropped for Guang-
cai Hutong, which means 'Splendour Hutong'. Muzhu Hutong, 'Mother Pig Hutong' or
'Sow Hutong', was elevated to the much more poetic Meizhu Hutong, or 'Plum Bamboo
Hutong'. Rouge Hutong ( Yanzhi Hutong) earned its name because it was the haunt of
prostitutes, 'rouge' being old Běijing slang for a working girl.
THE CHANGING FACE OF HÚTÒNG LAND
One by-product of the commercialisation of some hútòng is that they cease to be the fascinating microcosms of
local life they once were. Eight years ago, Nanluogu Xiang was still full of families who had lived there for gen-
erations and was lined with xiǎomàibù (small general stores) and greengrocers rather than bars.