Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WIND-WATER LANES
By far the majority of
hútòng
run east-west, ensuring that the main gate faces south, so sat-
isfying
fēngshuǐ
(geomancy, literally 'wind and water') requirements. This south-facing as-
pect guarantees maximum sunshine and protection from negative forces prevailing from
the north. This positioning mirrors the layout of all Chinese temples, which nourishes the
yáng
(the male and light aspect) while checking the
yīn
(the female and dark aspect). Less
significant north-south running alleyways link the main lanes.
Some courtyards used to be further protected by rectangular stones bearing the Chinese
characters for Tài Shān (Mt Tài) to vanquish bad omens. Other courtyards preserve their
screen walls or spirit walls
(yǐngbì) -fēngshuǐ
devices erected in front of the main gate to
deflect roaming spirits. Běijīng's two most impressive spirit walls are the Nine Dragon
Screens at the Forbidden City and in Běihǎi Park.
Trees provide
qì
(energy) and much-needed shade in summer, and most old courtyards
have a locust tree at the front, which would have been planted when the
sìhéyuàn
was con-
structed.
During the Cultural Revolution, selected
hútòng
were rechristened to reflect the fervour of the
times. Nanxiawa Hutong was renamed Xuemaozhu Hutong, literally 'Study Mao's Writings
Hutong', while Doujiao'er Hutong became Hongdaodi Hutong, or 'Red to the End Hutong'.
