Southeastern Tanzania - Tanzania - page 552

tlements in the area date to around AD 800, Kilwa remained a relatively undistinguished
place until the early 13th century. At this time, trade links developed with Sofala, 1500km
to the south in present-day Mozambique. Kilwa came to control Sofala and to dominate its
lucrative gold trade, and before long it had become the most powerful trade centre along
the Swahili coast.
In the late 15th century, Kilwa's fortunes began to turn. Sofala freed itself from the is-
land's dominance, and in the early 16th century Kilwa came under the control of the Por-
tuguese. It wasn't until more than 200 years later that Kilwa regained its independence and
once again became a significant trading centre, this time as an entrepôt for slaves being
shipped from the mainland to the islands of Mauritius, Réunion and Comoros. In the 1780s,
Kilwa came under the control of the Sultan of Oman. By the mid-19th century, the local
ruler had succumbed to the sultan of Zanzibar, the focus of regional trade shifted to Kil-
wa Kivinje on the mainland, and the island town entered a decline from which it never re-
covered.
The Ruins
The ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani are in two groups. When approaching Kilwa Kisiwani, the
first building you'll find is the Arabic fort (gereza) . It was built in the early 19th century
by the Omani Arabs, on the site of a Portuguese fort dating from the early 16th century. To
the southwest of the fort are the ruins of the beautiful Great Mosque , with its columns
and graceful vaulted roofing, much of which has been impressively restored. Some sections
of the mosque date to the late 13th century, although most are from additions made to the
building in the 15th century. In its day, this was the largest mosque on the East African
coast. Further southwest and behind the Great Mosque is a smaller mosque dating from
the early 15th century. This is considered to be the best preserved of the buildings at Kil-
wa and has also been impressively restored. To the west of the small mosque, with large,
green lawns and placid views over the water, are the crumbling remains of the Makutani
, a large, walled enclosure in the centre of which lived some of the sultans of Kilwa. It is
estimated to date from the mid-18th century.
Almost 1.5km from the fort along the coast is Husuni Kubwa , once a massive complex
of buildings covering almost a hectare and, together with nearby Husuni Ndogo , the oldest
of Kilwa's ruins. The complex, which is estimated to date from the 12th century or earlier,
is set on a hill and must have once commanded great views over the bay. Watch in partic-
ular for the octagonal bathing pool. Husuni Ndogo is smaller than Husuni Kubwa and is
thought to date from about the same time, although archaeologists are not yet sure of its
original function. To reach these ruins, you can walk along the beach at low tide or follow
the slightly longer inland route.