Southeastern Tanzania - Tanzania - page 553

INFORMATION
To visit the ruins, you will need to get a permit (per person Tsh1500) from the District
Commissioner's office (Halmashauri ya Wilaya ya Kilwa; 7.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri)
in Kilwa Masoko, diagonally opposite the post office. Ask for the Ofisi ya Mambo ya Kale
(Antiquities Office); the permit is issued without fuss while you wait. To maximise your
chances of finding the Antiquities Officer in, it's best to go in the morning. On weekends,
Kilwa Seaview Hotel can help you track down the permit officer, who is usually quite gra-
cious about issuing permits outside of working hours. You'll need to be accompanied by a
guide to visit the island, arranged through the Antiquities Office or Kilwa Seaview Hotel.
For detailed information in English about the ruins, look for a copy of HN Chittick's
informative manuscript, A Guide to the Ruins of Kilwa with Some Notes on the Other
Antiquities of the Region. The National Museum in Dar es Salaam has a small display on
Kilwa Kisiwani.
There are no restaurants or hotels on the island.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Local boats go from the port at Kilwa Masoko to Kilwa Kisiwani (Tsh200) whenever there
are enough passengers - usually only in the early morning, about 7am, which means you'll
need to arrange your permit the day before. To charter your own boat costs Tsh2000 one
way (from Tsh15,000 return for a boat with a motor). There is a Tsh300 port fee for tour-
ists, payable in the small office just right of the entry gate. With a good wind, the trip takes
about 20 minutes. Kilwa Seaview Hotel arranges excursions for US$30 per person (min-
imum two people), including guide, permit and boat costs.
SONGO MNARA
Tiny Songo Mnara, about 8km south of Kilwa Kisiwani, contains ruins at its northern end
- including of a palace, several mosques and numerous houses - that are believed to date
from the 14th and 15th centuries. They are considered in some respects to be more signi-
ficant architecturally than those at Kilwa Kisiwani - with one of the most complete town
layouts along the coast, although they're less visually impressive. Just off the island's west-
ern side is Sanje Majoma , with additional ruins dating from the same period. The small
island of Sanje ya Kati , between Songo Mnara and Kilwa Masoko, has some lesser ruins
of a third settlement in the area, also believed to date from the same era.
A permit for Songo Mnara costs Tsh1500; see details under the Kilwa Kisiwani section.
There's no accommodation on the island.
The best way to get to Songo Mnara is via motorboat from Kilwa Masoko, arranged
through the District Commissioner's office or with Kilwa Seaview Hotel (US$100 per