Western Tanzania - Tanzania - page 450

views of the many islands just offshore. These have many rocky points ideal for
snorkelling with cichlids.
The only guesthouse is just past the town at the lakeside St Benedict Mission
(r Tsh12,000; ) whose semi-scruffy rooms lack electricity and working
showers. About 1.5km further is the universally praised Lake Shore Lodge &
Campsite ( 0763-993166; www.safaritourtanzania.com ; camping US$12,
banda s/d full board US$120/170, chalet s full board US$415-495, d full board
US$590-700; ). It has chalets with a lovely open 'African Zen' design,
cosy bandas and camping with spotless ablutions. Meals (breakfast/lunch/dinner
US$7/10/15) come from the organic garden. And there are enough activities to
keep you busy for days: kayaking on the lake, quad biking, mountain biking,
diving (it's the only PADI-certified operation on the lake in Tanzania), village
tours, island dinners and more. The lodge makes a great combination with
Katavi and/or Mahale Mountains National Parks, and staff can take you to both
using their own trucks and boats. Offshore from Kipili is the uber-exclusive
Lupita Island ( 0 784-266558 ; www.firelightexpeditions.com ; s/d/f full
board incl drinks US$1200/1900/2890; ) , with 13 large open-design
suites, each with its own plunge pool, and a helicopter for excursions.
Sumry has the only bus from Sumbawanga. Its destination is Kirando, so get
off at Katongoro (Tsh10,000, 11am Monday to Saturday, five hours), 5km from
Kipili, and either walk, wait for a passing vehicle or ride on the back of a bi-
cycle. Lake Shore Lodge will pick up its guests here for free. From Mpanda,
there's a daily Sumry bus to Namanyere (Tsh14,000, noon, four hours), where
you can catch a passing vehicle heading to Kipili. North to Mpanda, the
Namanyere bus departs at 10am, but if you miss it it's easy to catch a Mpanda-
bound vehicle on the highway in Chala.
KASANGA & MUZI
The sprawling village of Kasanga is theMV Liemba 's last (or first) stop in Tan-
zania, and the port is being upgraded to serve as an export-import hub for DRC.
The Germans founded it as Bismarckburg and the ruins of the old boma sit at
the tip of the peninsula, 2km from the town, just behind the jetty, but you can't
visit or photograph it as it's now a military base. Kalambo Falls ( Click here ) is
within striking distance.
Mwenya Guesthouse (s/d without bathroom Tsh3000/4000) in the village of
Muzi, 7km from the port, is less grotty than the three guesthouses in Kasanga
proper. Just before Muzi (if walking from Kasanga, ask people to show you the
path by the lake) is the attractive Liemba Beach Lodge ( 0784-327464;
[e-mail]; tent s/d Tsh15,000/20,000, cottage Tsh40,000;