Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
LAKE TANGANYIKA
Lake Tanganyika is the world's longest (660km), second-deepest (over 1436m)
and second-largest by volume freshwater lake. At somewhere between nine and
13 million years old, it's also one of the oldest. Thanks to its age and ecological
isolation it's home to an exceptional number of endemic fish, including 98% of
the 250-plus species of cichlids. Popular aquarium fish due to their bright col-
ours, the cichlids make Tanganyika an outstanding snorkelling and diving des-
tination. Tanganyika is bilharzia free.
Kigoma is the only proper town on the Tanzanian shore, though small rarely
visited settlements line the shore. They offer a fascinating look at local life,
while the rolling countryside around the villages is beautiful and ideal for day
treks. Besides the MV Liemba ( Click here ) , lake taxis ( Click here ) travel the
shoreline at least every two or three days. The following towns can also be
reached by road, either on some of the world's most overcrowded buses or the
backs of trucks. All buses leave the villages at or before dawn. Trucks can usu-
ally be found later in the day; however, during the rainy season there might not
be any at all.
KALEMA
Kalema (Karema) is a still-functioning Catholic mission station established in
1885. Parts of the main compound, whose brick arches give it an Italian ambien-
ce, were originally a Belgian fort before being handed over to the White Fathers
in 1889. The large church built the following year is still in use, but it feels
modern after extensive changes.
The best of Kalema's two guesthouses is the bright green Julieta Guesthouse
( 0766-452016; s/d without bathroom Tsh4000/6000) on the beach side of
town. There's no electricity, Western toilets or actual showers, but it's really
quite decent all things considered. A nun told us the mission may open some
rooms.
Two bus companies, Sanas (leaving Mpanda daily at noon) and Kalavashok
(Tuesday, Thursday and Sat at 1pm), connect Kalema with Mpanda (Tsh7000
four to five hours). Its ticket offices are only at Mpanda's bus station, not in the
city centre.
KIPILI
Kipili, reached by a beautiful road through the Lafwe Game Reserve, is another
old mission station. The hilltop ruins of the 1880s church, 3km north of town,
are very evocative (fantastic for photography) and surrounded by dreamy lake
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