Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
half-hourly Apr-Oct)
runs to nearby Place Creek, the starting point for several coastal walks
and the beaches of Great and Little Molunan.
St-Just-in-Roseland
The creekside church at St-Just-in-Roseland is quite possibly the prettiest in Cornwall -
and in this ecclesiastically-minded county, there's no shortage of competition. Surrounded
by a jumble of wildflowers and overhanging yews tumbling down to a boat-filled creek,
the present church dates from the 13th century, but there was probably an oratory here as
far back as the 6th century.
It's a gorgeous place to wander on a sunny day, with peaceful paths meandering among
rhododendrons, magnolias and azaleas, and many lichen-covered gravestones, some of
which are 300 years old or more. Look out for the signs as you reach St Just village.
little country pub just outside the hamlet of Philleigh, a couple of miles uphill from the
King Harry Ferry. Outside it's covered with climbing roses and wisteria: inside it's all old
pictures, brass whatnots and beams. The garden's a beauty, too.
The 500-year-old thatched
Smuggler's Cottage
(Tolverne)
, just uphill from the King Harry
Ferry, has long been one of Cornwall's best-known riverside tea rooms, and was recently
modernised by the Tregothnan estate. It was closed at the time of writing.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
7TH RISE & THE LOST COTTAGE
If you really want to dodge the modern world for a while, this back-of-beyond cottage beside the banks of the Fal
is the place to do it. Run by hunter, forager and diehard fisherman Thom Hunt, who trades under the name of
7th
Rise
(
www.7thrise.co.uk
; 1-day/weekend course £95/249) and appeared on the
Three Hungry Boys
TV series, it's
halfway between a bushcraft school and a spiritual retreat. Activities include catching and cleaning your own fish,
foraging for marsh samphire and mussels, canoeing on the Fal, cooking in an underground oven and practising
your skills on the makeshift shooting range.
The cottage is deliberately basic - outdoor shower, shack privy, communal bunks and no hot water - but that's
all part of the backwoods experience. Thom's a man with a plan, and there are few places better to escape the
stresses and strains of the 21st century.
