Where to Dine - Dublin - page 81

tabletops, chandelier, and tall windows that look across a cobbled
yard toward the National Library. Everything is made fresh: beef
salad, chicken salad, quiche, an abundance of pastries. The soup of
the day is often vegetarian, and quite good. Admission to the
museum is free, so you can visit at your own pace, as often as your
curiosity (or appetite) demands.
National Museum of Ireland, Kildare St., Dublin 2. & 01/677-7444. Soup € 3
($3.60); lunch main courses under € 8 ($9.60). MC, V. Tues-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun

2-5pm. Bus: 7, 7A, 8, 10, 11, or 13.

5 Ballsbridge/Embassy Row Area
EXPENSIVE
Roly's Bistro IRISH/INTERNATIONAL Opened in
1992, this two-story shop-front restaurant quickly became an insti-
tution. The recent departure of Roly Saul, who pioneered the ven-
ture, spurred former head chef Colin O'Daly to step up as owner.
Even with the changes, the Roly's magic is still palpable. The head
chef, Paul Cartwright, cooks the same kind of excellent, tummy-
warming food you never get tired of: confit of duck with garlic
mash, roasted venison, chicken-and-bean-sprout spring roll, pan-
fried Dublin Bay prawns, game pie with chestnuts, wild-mushroom
risotto. The main dining room, with a bright and airy decor and lots
of windows, can be noisy when the house is full, but the nonsmok-
ing section has a quiet enclave of booths laid out in an Orient
Express style for those who prefer a quiet tête-à-tête. There's also an
excellent array of international wines offered.
7 Ballsbridge Terrace, Dublin 4. & 01/668-2611. Reservations required. Main
courses 19 ($23). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily

noon-3pm and 6-10pm. DART to Lansdowne Rd. Station. Bus: 5, 6, 7, 8, 18, or 45.

€ 20- € 27 ($24-$33); set-price lunch €

MODERATE
The French Paradox WINE BAR Just what tony
Dublin 4 needed: A price-conscious, darling little bistro-cum- bar
de vin that's endeared itself to everyone in the city. The wine's the
thing here, so relax with a bottle of bordeaux or Côte du Rhone and
whatever nibbles you like from the menu. There's a lovely cheese
plate named for West Cork cheese maker Bill Hogan, superb Iberico
hams from Spain, or, if you're more hungry, the delicious bistro stal-
wart of confit of duck with vegetables. Simply delicious.
53 Shelbourne Rd., Dublin 4. & 01/660-4068. www.thefrenchparadox.com. Reser-
vations recommended. All items

Value

20 ($12-$24). Main dishes come with glass
of wine. AE, MC, V. Mon-Sat noon-3pm and 2 evening sittings at 6 and 9pm. DART:
Lansdowne Rd. Bus: 5, 6, 7, 8, 18, or 45.

€ 10- €