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wild sea bass with ragout of mussels, and pan-fried foie gras with
marinated red cabbage in a raspberry vinaigrette. If you're unde-
cided, order the scrumptious ravioli of lobster with coconut cream,
and finish with the assiette gourmande au chocolat (five small hot and
cold chocolate desserts).
In the Merrion Hotel, 21 Upper Merrion St., Dublin 2. & 01/676-4192. Reserva-
tions required. Fixed-price 2-course lunch
30 ($36); fixed-price 3-course lunch
50
($42-$60). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues-Sat 12:30-2:15pm and 7-10:15pm. DART: Westland
Row. Bus: 10, 11A, 11B, 13, or 20B.
EXPENSIVE
Dobbins Wine Bistro BISTRO This is a foodie's all-time
favorite haunt. Almost hidden in a lane between Upper and Lower
Mount streets, this hip, friendly bistro is a haven for inventive Con-
tinental cuisine. The menu changes often, but usually includes such
items as duckling with orange and port sauce; steamed paupiette of
black sole with salmon, crab, and prawn filling; pan-fried veal kid-
neys in pastry; and filet of beef topped with crispy herb bread
crumbs with shallot and Madeira sauce. You'll have a choice of sit-
ting in the bistro, with checkered tablecloths and sawdust on the
floor, or on the atrium patio.
15 Stephen's Lane (off Upper Mount St.), Dublin 2. & 01/676-4679. Reservations
recommended. Dinner main courses
45 ($54); fixed-price dinner
110 ($133). Dinner main courses
35-
23 ($17-$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Fri
12:30-2:30pm; Tues-Sat 7:30-10:30pm. DART: Pearse. Bus: 5, 7A, 8, 46, or 84.
14-
Ely ORGANIC BISTRO This is one of our favorite new
entries this year: a cosmopolitan, clever place that does everything
right. Erik Robson is originally from County Clare, and sources all
its organic produce from his family farm there. The food is simple
but expertly prepared, the crowd enthusiastic, the service attentive.
Think fantastic “bangers and mash” (sausages and mashed spuds),
delicious Clare oysters, superb Irish stew, and a great selection of
cheeses from Sheridan's. Factor in a smashing wine list and you've
got a winner.
22 Ely Place (off Merrion Row), Dublin 2. & 01/676-8986. Reservations recom-
mended. Dinner main courses
23 ($17-$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat
noon-3pm and 6-10:30pm. Bus: 7, 7A, 8, 10, 11, or 13.
14-
INEXPENSIVE
National Museum Café CAFETERIA This is a great place to
step out of the rain, warm yourself, and then wander among the
nation's treasures. The cafe is informal but has a certain elegance,
thanks to an elaborate mosaic floor, enameled fireplace, marble
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