Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
325
fly-fishing lodge, this ar ea is definitely wor th exploring. Driving south out of B ariloche
on RN 40, y ou'll pass tall water falls and sno wy peaks, edge ar ound emerald lakes, and
drop through a deep canyon as you head to El Bolsón. This laid-back town has a micro-
climate that has drawn nature lovers from around the country since the 1960s.
Heading south fr om B ariloche, y ou'll find the lo vely
Estancia P euma H ue
(
&
02944/15-501030
[cell]; www.peuma-hue.com) on the south shore of Lake Gutier-
rez. With two large houses and two cabins, as w ell as a slew of outdoor activities such as
horseback riding and tr ekking, this high-end complex is intimate. I t's one of the only
ways to live a more rural Patagonian experience so close to B ariloche. A 3-day all-inclu-
sive plan starts at $255 (£173) per person per day.
Continuing south, y ou'll pass the
Continental D ivide
—a wide marsh wher e the
water drains north to Lake Gutierrez and then on to the Nahuel Huapi and the Atlantic;
and west through Lake Mascardi, over the border to Chile and the Pacific.
A DRIVING TOUR: CERRO TRONADOR, LOS ALERCES
WATERFALL & VENTISQUERO NEGRO
This wonder ful, full-day ex cursion takes visitors thr ough lush for est and past emerald
lakes (such as the picturesque Lago Mascardi), waterfalls, and beaches to a trail head that
leads to the face of
Ventisquero Negro (Black Glacier).
You'll need a vehicle to drive the
215km (133-mile) r ound-trip r oad, including a detour to Cascada Los Aler ces (Los
Alerces Waterfall); it's 170km (105 miles) without the detour. Plan to stop frequently at
the various lookout points along the r oad. Most tour agencies offer this ex cursion for
about $35 to $40 (£24-£27) a person. A priv ate bilingual local guide can also take y ou
for around $160 (£108) plus transportation.
At 35km (22 miles) south of B ariloche, you'll reach Villa Mascardi. Take RP 81, the
road that branches off to the right. You must stop at the National Parks gates and pay an
entrance fee of $3.50 (£2.35) for for eigners. Past the turnoff to P ampa Linda and Los
Rapidos campsite, continue to the Río Manso bridge, where a road heads left to the Los
Alerces Waterfall. A 300m (984-ft.) walk takes y ou to a vista point o verlooking the
waterfall. After doubling back, you reach the bridge again, where you head left, continu-
ing along the shor e of Lake M ascardi until y ou reach the
Hotel Tronador
(
&
02944/
441062;
www.hoteltronador.com), wher e the vie ws of Mt. Tronador ar e outstanding.
The charming log cabin hotel, built in 1929 by a Belgian immigrant family, is backed by
high peaks and makes a good spot for lunch or a quiet getaway for o vernight visitors.
They have 30 rooms; high-season (Jan-Feb) prices for a double start at $115 (£78). The
road continues up the valley of the Río Manso Superior, winding through alpine scenery
until reaching the lush and expansive Pampa Linda plains, where there is another inn and
teahouse. The final leg ends at a stunning cirque (a steep valley with a lake) draped with
vegetation and water falls. From here a trail leads to the B lack G lacier, named for the
debris that colors the ice at its terminus. The mountain's power is imposing here. Return
to Bariloche the same way y ou came, and see if y ou can pick out the hear t-shaped Isla
Corazón in the middle of Lago M ascardi.
Note that the route to Tronador, RP 81, is a narr ow gravel road with restricted hours
of transit during the busy summer months. Cars are allowed to travel in toward Tronador
in the mornings only (9:30am-2pm), and trav el out again in the afternoon only (4:30-
7:30pm). Check with the Tourist Information Office before heading out.
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