Córdoba & the Central Sierras - Argentina - page 248

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military uniforms, a rifle collection, early saddles and leather wear, and an 18th-centur y
chamber organ.
Rosario de Santa Fe 218. & 351/433-1661. Admission 60¢ (40p). Mon-Fri 9:30am-3pm.
Museo Superior de B ellas Artes Evita Sumptuous, stylish, and modish
are just some of the words I would use to describe Córdoba's latest art gallery. It is located
in the fabulous Palacio Ferreyra, a gorgeous French-style mansion once owned by one of
the province's richest and best-established families. G ilded baroque collides with 20th-
century brashness, and the r esult is a charming afternoon of smiles and surprises. O ne
such shock is the modern, pitch-black stair case. As you ascend, you realize it is co vered
entirely in hair y cow skin. Other contrasts include the high, ornate ceiling co vings and
the futuristic Perspex furniture in the airy cafe with ample balcony. Mosaic floors, golden
wallpaper, and glass-draped walls means this ar chitectural gem has been r enovated with
a modernist flourish. The excellent exhibits range from 18th-century Cuzco art to 1960s
Argentine pop. One giant r oom is dedicated to the M endocinean artist Carlos Alonso
and his dark disturbing commentaries on the D irty War. A must-see.
Hipólito Yrigoyen 511. & 351/434-3636. [e-mail]. Admission $1 (70p); free
on Wed. Tues-Sun 10am-8pm. Guided visits in English Tues-Fri 3pm; in Spanish Sat-Sun 11am, 3 and
5pm.

Paseo del Buen Pastor Kids Occupying a triangular city block, E l Paseo del
Buen Pastor is a modernist maze of cafes, restaurants, exhibition rooms, and art gardens.
Located in a former women 's prison that is no w dedicated to those who suffer ed under
the dictatorship, the complex is a be wildering display of surr eal art, glass-framed walk-
ways, and rust-colored flagstones. Stark metal pillars and driftwood installations contrast
with a conv ent-style chapel. G reen-molded seating and psy chedelic cowhide restaurant
menus give a futuristic nod, as does the o ver-the-top light-and-water sho w featuring a
fountain display to a F reddy Mercury soundtrack. The fountain show takes place ev ery
day at 7 and 11pm. There is a small cinema, a super vised children's area, and a selection
of stores and cafes.
Av. Hipólito Yrigoyen 325. & 351/411-1312 or 351/411-1213. Free admission. Daily 10am-10pm. Daily
guided visits in Spanish 10:20am and 12:20, 2:20, and 4:20pm; English noon Sat.

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Plaza San Martín and the C abildo The 400-y ear-old plaza orients the city ,
with General San Martín facing the direction of Mendoza (from which his army crossed
into Chile and later P eru to liberate them fr om Spanish r ule). E xhibitions, fairs, and
impromptu markets are frequent events on the plaza. The Cabildo stands on the plaza's
west side. During the military dictatorship of the late 1970s and early 1980s, the Cabildo
functioned as police headquar ters and was used, as ackno wledged by a small sign along
Pasaje Santa Catalina, as a clandestine center for detention, torture, and execution. Today
the Cabildo is a friendlier place, used mainly for cultural exhibitions and ev ents.
At Deán Funes and Independencia. & 351/428-5856. Tues-Sun 9am-1pm; daily 4-9pm.
Shopping
Feria Artesanal del Paseo de las Ar tes is an ex cellent antiques and handicrafts fair on
Achaval Rodríguez and La Cañada on Saturday and Sunday (3-10pm in winter, 6-11pm
in summer). Close b y is an indoor mar ket known as Casa Tomada, Achaval Rodríguez
260. This former 1940s baker y now houses a doz en design stores selling leather goods,
jewelry, antiques, and clothes. O ut back is a pleasant cour tyard with r estaurants.
It is open Tuesday to S unday from 5 to 10pm. Mazamorra, Rivadavia 153 ( & 351/