Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
232
SHOPPING
Cheese is the valley's most famous product, and you'll find giant blocks of the cheddar-
style local delicacy on ev ery counter. Wool is also in abundance.
Cooperativa Union
Diaguita,
Galeria Los Arcos, Avenida Presidente Perón (
&
3867/421790
), makes sweat-
ers, thr ows, and tablecloths fr om local wool using natural dy es.
Artesania Lilen,
Av.
Presidente Perón 176 (
&
3867/421496
), is good for a 20-minute browse through feath-
ered wind chimes and ceramics. Owner Celina G arrido displays local ar t, including
her o wn color ful landscapes and por traits.
Los Ar tesanias,
Av. P residente Perón 252
(
&
3867/421758
), and
Tinkus Huasi,
Av. Presidente Perón 120 (
&
3867/420190
),
are both crammed with local handicrafts.
WHERE TO STAY
Expensive
Estancia Jesuítica Las C arreras
Built in 1718 b y the J esuits, this wor king
estancia
has one of the oldest farmhouses in the pr ovince. Everything is maintained true
to its original appearance, do wn to the white washed adobe walls and burgundy-color ed
tin roof. The rooms are sparkling clean and some what utilitarian, y et comfortable and
pleasing, with terra-cotta tiles and tasseled bed covers. The farm is famous for its cheese-
making tradition, which goes back nine generations. They also gr ow strawberries and
raise Jersey cows. Half a mile fr om the town, it has a stunning mountain backdr op and
a countryside feel.
RN 325, K m 13.
&
3867/421473.
w ww.estancialascarreras.com.ar. 6 units . From $140 (£95) double .
Rates include breakfast. No credit cards. Free parking.
Amenities:
Restaurant; lounge; museum; cheese
factory; solarium; Wi-Fi.
Estancia Las Tacanas
Las Tacanas is a genuine Jesuit
estancia
with all the frills.
Stone walls, complete with a Virgin Mary grotto, surround a large historical
estancia
right
in the hear t of the to wn. The religious theme is continued inside with a bishop 's gown
displayed in the lobby and paintings hanging on white washed walls built by Jesuits 300
years ago. The four-poster bed was once the go vernor's, and the old saddles and blue
ceramics belonged to the town's biggest landowners. That same family has now converted
the farmhouse and stables into a luxur y lodge with large spacious r ooms and charming
period furniture. An old oak tree stands in the ivy bordered central courtyard, and a line
of comfy deck chairs sit among pillars overlooking a field-size garden. And yet, you are a
2-minute walk from main street!
Av. Presidente Perón 372, Tafi del Valle.
&
3867/421821.
www.estancialastacanas.com. 9 units . From
$90 (£61) double. Rates include breakfast. No credit cards.
8
Moderate
Estancia Los Cuartos
Value
To stay in an Argentine
estancia
often requires a
car and money . With Los C uartos y ou need neither . Located within the to wn limits
means there are no problems with access, and room rates of $60 (£41) per double means
you do not hav e to break the bank to enjo y genuine 19th-centur y rustic splendor. The
lodge sits in a large field surr ounded b y wood fencing. A lo w-slung corr ugated r oof
shades a long gallery of dark pillars and white walls. The thick adobe keeps cool the very
authentic, cottage-style r ooms with gr een wooden doors and rafter ed ceilings. The low
brass beds face windo ws overlooking the splendid central cour tyard, and the tiny doors
lead to a handsome dining r oom with an antique table and adjacent librar y. The small
