Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
186
of a cow, which might be worth trying for an only-in-Argentina experience). A large wine
selection complements everything on the menu.
Arellano 147, at Segundo Sombra (overlooking Plaza Arellano).
&
2326/456-705.
Main courses $4-$10
(£2.70-£6.80). AE, V. Daily 9am-2am (Fri-Sat until 3am).
PAMPAS & ESTANCIAS
San Antonio is a popular base for exploring Argentina's famous
estancias,
which doubled
historically as both farms and for tresses, built throughout the countr y along trails fr om
Buenos Aires as a means of conquering and stabilizing territor y originally controlled by
the Indians. The majority of Argentina's
estancias
date from the mid- to late 1800s. After
General Roca's Campaign of the Desert in the 1870s, in which he murdered most of the
Indian population within 150 miles of B uenos Aires, the land gav e rise to
estancias
and
their cattle and grain pr oduction. Despite the bloody histor y that gav e birth to them,
today they're seen as a retreat from the chaos and stress of Buenos Aires. They are popu-
lar among Porteños on weekends or for day trips. With the increasing boom of tourism
to Argentina, many foreigners are beginning to delight in them as w ell.
Most of the
estancias
listed here are a half-hour from San Antonio, and no more than
2 hours from Buenos Aires. You can drive to all of them on your own, or use a bus service
from Buenos Aires to S an Antonio, and then catch a taxi fr om there. For a fee in the
range of $80 to $100 (£54-£70), almost all the
estancias
will also provide transportation
from your hotel or the airpor t in B uenos Aires. Because many
estancias
are accessed b y
dirt roads, it is advisable to rent a 4WD vehicle if you decide to drive yourself, especially
if rain is predicted during the time of your visit. The websites of the
estancias
listed here
post detailed driving maps.
Services and featur es vary, but the atmospher e at most
estancias
is a cr oss between a
rustic resort and a bed-and-breakfast. Nothing relieves stress like a few days in the coun-
try, and horseback riding, tr ekking, lounging b y the pool, and eating and drinking
aplenty are all part of a day in the Pampas. In general, the rates for
estancias
include a full
board of four meals—br eakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner—and sometimes all
drinks, including alcohol. L unch, the highlight of dining on an
estancia,
is usually an
asado,
or barbecue, where everyone, including the workers, gathers to socialize. Day rates
generally include only lunch and limited activities. Most
estancias
are real working farms,
with hundreds of acres and cows, horses, and other animals attended by real gauchos (not
all of whom dress in the traditional way). I f you're in the mood to milk a co w or watch
the birth of colt, you just might have the chance.
El Cencerro
Smaller, cozier, and mor e rustic than some of the other places
listed here, this wor king
estancia
will make y ou feel like y ou're part of the farm 's daily
goings-on. It's owned by Buenos Aires-based psychologist Liliana Herbstein, who spends
her weekends here. The ranch takes its name from the
cencerro,
a bell used by gauchos to
tame horses. Rooms and public areas are filled with antiques and odd objects Liliana and
her husband Eduardo have collected over the years, including antique luggage from Lili-
ana's family's old stor e in B uenos Aires. Eduardo is an ar chitect and ar tist, whose wor k
also hangs throughout the main house. Activities include horseback riding, helping with
the animals if y ou want, carriage rides, bicy cle rides, and tr ekking. Only 3km (2 miles)
away is historic Capilla del S eñor, a charming to wn established in the early 1700s. You
can walk or bike ther e on y our own, or ask for optional guided tours. S imilar to S an
Antonio de Areco in feel, it's virtually unknown to non-Argentines. Real gauchos wander
the downtown, going about their business after a day tending cattle. E very second Tues-
day of the month, the to wn has an animal auction, which Liliana attends with some of
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