Bay of Kotor - Montenegro - page 97

While summer holidaymakers still head to its small beaches, Risan has a rundown feel,
not helped by the port and large hotel hogging its sea frontage. You wouldn't think to
look at it, but this is the oldest town on the bay, dating to at least the 3rd century BC
when it was a fortified Illyrian town. Their queen Teuta is said to have retreated here dur-
ing the Roman invasion and made it her capital. When the Romans inevitably took over,
they erected sumptuous seaside mansions, one of which is now Risan's main claim to
fame.
In 1930 the foundations of a grand villa were discovered, complete with wonderful mo-
saics (admission €2; 9am-7pm 15 May-15 Oct) . A shelter has been erected over the site to pro-
tect it from the elements, and English-speaking staff are at hand to explain the building's
layout. The dining-room floor is decorated with flowers, herbs, grapevines and squid,
while other rooms have intricate geometric patterns. Best of all is the bedroom which fea-
tures a wonderful depiction of Hypnos, the Greek god of sleep, reclining on a pillow.
After checking out the mosaics it's worth a short stroll through the leafy park, which
hides the elegant Orthodox Church of Sts Peter and Paul (Crkva Sv Petra i Pavla; 9-11am) , dating
from 1796, and on to the central square, Trg 21 Novembra. Leading up the hill from here
is Gabela , an atmospheric lane with interesting patterned cobbling dating from the Otto-
man occupation.
Buses running between Herceg Novi and Kotor stop in Risan.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Perast Пераст
POP 270
Looking like a chunk of Venice that has floated down the Adriatic and anchored itself
onto the bay, Perast hums with melancholy memories of the days when it was rich and
powerful. Despite having only one main street, this tiny town boasts 16 churches and 17
formerly grand palazzos. While some are just enigmatic ruins sprouting bougainvillea
and wild fig, others are caught up in the whirlwind of renovation that has hit the town.
Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones are said to have paid €2 million for a house
here.
The town slopes down from the highway to a narrow waterfront road (Obala Marka
Martinovića) that runs along its length. At its heart is St Nicholas' Church, set on a small
square lined with date palms and the bronze busts of famous citizens.