Mauritania - West Africa - page 552

AN EPIC JOURNEY ON THE IRON-ORE TRAIN
Africa offers some pretty wild train trips, but the train ferrying iron ore from the mines at Zouérat to Nouâdhibou
might just be the wildest. One of the longest trains in the world (typically a staggering 2.3km long), when it ar-
rives at the 'station' in Nouâdhibou, a decrepit building in the open desert, a seemingly endless number of ore
wagons pass before the passenger carriage at the rear finally appears. The lucky ones find a place on one of the
two long benches (UM2500); the rest stand or sit on the floor. There are also a dozen 'berths' (UM3000) that are
so worn out you can see the springs. It's brutally basic. It's also possible to clamber into the ore cars and travel for
free. Impossibly dusty, it's only for the hardcore. Plastic sheets are essential to wrap your bags (and person), plus
plenty of warm clothes, as the desert can get fearsomely cold at night, as well as food and drink.
The train leaves Nouâdhibou at around 2pm to 3pm daily. Most travellers get off at Choûm, 12 hours later,
where bush taxis wait to take passengers to Atâr, three hours away. In the other direction, the train leaves Zouérat
around midday and passes through Atâr at about 5.30pm.
Sleeping
In the centre, you'll find a slew of cheap restaurants along Rue de la Galérie Mahfoud.
They're nothing fancy, serving fish and mafé (groundnut-based stew) for around UM300 a
plate.
Camping Chez Abba CAMPGROUND $
( 4574 9896; fax [phone]; Blvd Médian; tent per person UM1500, s/d UM2000/4000; ) A good over-
landers' haunt, with plenty of space to park and pitch a tent, and a few decent rooms with
their own bathrooms and hot water. Recommended.
Camping Baie du Lévrier HOSTEL $
( 4574 6536, mobile [phone]; Blvd Médian; s/d UM3000/5000; ) Also known as Chez Ali, this au-
berge -style place has a good location. Rooms are a bit cell-like, and bathroom facilities
are shared, but there is a tent to relax in and cooking facilities.
Hôtel Al Jezira HOTEL $$
( 4574 5317; Blvd Maritime; s/d incl breakfast UM13,000/15,000; ) Nouâdhibou isn't overrun
with top-class accommodation, but this midrange hotel slightly north of the centre just
about works out. Rates are slightly high for what's on offer, but the rooms are fair, and oc-
casionally border on the comfy.
Hotel Sahel HOTEL $$$