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takes you to the grim dungeons, punishment cells, Door of No Return and the turret room
where the British imprisoned the Ashanti king, Prempeh I, for four years. Later, soldiers
of the Royal West African Frontier Force trained at the castle.
These days there are palm trees growing in the (dry) moat. The Portuguese church, con-
verted into slave-auctioning rooms by the Protestant Dutch, houses a museum with simple
but super-informative displays on the history and culture of Elmina.
Lagoon NEIGHBOURHOOD
The traditional name of Elmina is Anomansa, meaning inexhaustible supply of water.
Watching the colourful pirogues pull in and out of the lagoon, breathing in the salty air
and listening to the cacophony of shouts at the crowded Mpoben port is like having front-
row theatre seats. The vast fish market is also fascinating to wander around, particularly
when the day's fishing catch is being unloaded in the afternoon.
Ghana Ecotours WALKING TOUR
( 024-2176357; www.ghanaecotours.com ; 1st fl, St George's Castle; 1-5 people C15) Run by the ebullient
Felix, this sensational outfit offers highly informative walking tours (one hour) that re-
trace the city's history. Tours take in the local fish market, the town's posuban , colonial
buildings, small alleyways and great panoramas.
Sleeping & Eating
Stumble Inn LODGE $
( 054-1462733; www.stumbleinnghana.com ; dm C10, d C50) This little slice of heaven gets rave re-
views from travellers, and rightly so: the spotless huts and dorm are homely (and eco-
friendly, with solar panels and dry- composting toilets), the location right on the beach
with gorgeous grounds is dreamy, the food is delicious and the staff are exquisite. It's loc-
ated about 4km west of town, just before the Elmina Bay Resort.
Almond Tree Guesthouse B&B $$
( 024-4281098; www.almond3.com ; r C63-135; ) It is Byron, Sonia and Michelle's warm
welcome that makes this guesthouse so special. Originally from Jamaica, the family
settled in Britain and then here. The rooms are impeccable and homely; some have shared
facilities while others enjoy their own little balcony. Prices include breakfast.
Coconut Grove Beach Resort RESORT $$$
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