Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Set commandingly on the cliffs like the nest of a seabird, São Filipe is a town of grace,
charm, immaculate Portuguese houses, and plazas full of flowers and sleepy benches.
Below, at the base of the cliffs, lies a beach of jet-black sand and evil, dumping waves;
beyond, tantalising on the horizon, squats the island of Brava. All this makes São Filipe
one of the most compelling and charming towns in Cape Verde. Note that strong currents
make the town beach unsafe for swimming, especially in winter.
Sights
Dja'r Fogo
GALLERY
( 9919713; djarfogo-agnelo@hotmail.com; 9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)
A must-
stop for visitors interested in history, culture and coffee. Run by a local artist who splits
his time between Lisbon, Paris and Fogo, it serves as art gallery, cafe, information point
and launch pad for informal trips around the island. It's also the best place to taste artisan-
al Fogo coffee; the owner's family has had a coffee plantation since 1874 and, six genera-
tions later, he still roasts and packages it into neat little cotton bags.
If Agnelo, the owner, is on Fogo, he organises personalised island circuits as well as
dinners at his 200-year-old family estate,
Quinta das Saudades
, in the village of Achada Lapa,
8km east from town in the mountains. This is a treat not to be missed (CVE1500 per per-
son, with wine, plus CVE700 for transfer), featuring traditional corn-based dishes pre-
pared by a woman who has been cooking for the family for 40 years. Email or call ahead
of time to arrange the dinner.
If Agnelo is away, the gallery is still open; relax on the patio over a cup of coffee or
check out the old photos, art and jewelry made of recycled materials and cards made with
banana leaves and black sand.
Museu Municipal
MUSEUM
( 2812475; adult/student & child CVE100/free; 10am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Pop into this airy colonial man-
sion with two floors of exhibits, showcasing old photographs, traditional music instru-
ments, sewing machines and sundry items. You can watch the 28-minute film about the
1995 volcano eruption (no subtitles), browse the souvenir shop and see the
funco,
a tradi-
tional circular abode made of volcanic rock, in the leafy courtyard.
Praia da Salina
BEACH
Join the locals at the lovely Praia da Salina. Protected by strange volcanic rock forma-
tions, the beach is 17km to the north of town on the route to Mosteiros.
