Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
perienced the trauma of partition first-hand, the sensitivity they feel in relation to this sub-
ject cannot be overstated.
Traditionally, ultimate relaxation for a Cypriot man in his courtyard or garden requires the use of seven time-hon-
oured wooden chairs. One for his stick, one for his coffee, one for each arm, one for each leg and of course one to
sit on.
THE KAFENEIO & THE TEAHOUSE
In South Cyprus' villages, the local
kafeneio
(coffee shop) is the central meeting point. Most will have two such
places, distinguished by their political alignment (socialist or nationalist). In the North the village hub is the local
teahouse. Both South and North, these cafes are filled with men of all generations, sitting, serving or flipping
beads. Many come and go on their way to and from work. The older men sit quietly, spread across chairs, waiting
out the days like oracles, eating haloumi and olives or drinking coffee, tea and (in the South)
zivania
(fermented
grape pomace). Good friends sit in pairs, smoking cigarettes and playing
tavli
(backgammon) in the shade of the
vine leaves. Their dice rattle, while moves are counted and strategies are shaped in whispers. And come lunch-
time, only the lingering smoke remains, as the men stampede home for their midday meal and siesta, returning in
the evening to do it all again.
