Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Great Divide
The daily lives of Cypriots are still largely dominated by the domestic and international fo-
cus on the division that scores the island. Over the last 40 years, nearly two generations
have grown up with partition and the incessant political news and discussions on both sides
of the Green Line regarding the 'Cyprus problem'. Nowadays, though there remains some
allegiance to mainland Greece or Turkey, most people see themselves as Cypriot first and
Greek or Turkish second. In recent years a significant number of the younger population on
both sides of the divide, who were born after the island was split in two, have become in-
creasingly tired of the political manoeuvring that dominates Cypriot headlines and are
pressing for a final resolution.
When the first border crossings between North and South opened in 2003, no one knew
how the Cypriot people would react and what the consequences would be. Would there be
riots or civil unrest? After all, no one had crossed the Green Line for 29 years, save for dip-
lomatic reasons. Many still had friends, relatives and homes they missed on the 'other
side'.
The newly opened checkpoints swelled with thousands of people crossing the border.
Many Turkish Cypriots who came south were enchanted by the comparative wealth and the
elegant shops and restaurants in Nicosia's streets, while many Greek Cypriots wandered the
streets of North Nicosia, surprised at the way time had stood still for 30 years. Old ac-
quaintances met and tears were shed. Some Greeks visited their former homes and proper-
ties in the North, and in some cases existing inhabitants reportedly welcomed visitors cor-
dially and even invited them in for coffee and gave them gifts of citrus fruit and flowers. It
is estimated that more than 35% of Cyprus' population crossed in the first two weeks, and
over 25,000 Turkish Cypriots applied for a Cypriot passport (from the Republic of Cyprus)
in that year alone.
The people have treated each other with studied civility and kindness, and even now,
years after the openings, no major incidents have been reported. Since the attitude to cross-
ing the border has normalised, over 20 million crossings have been recorded, with around
70% of those North to South. Indeed, many Turkish Cypriots now cross the Green Line
daily to shop or work in the southern part of the island. While Greek Cypriots make up less
of the border traffic, many do head over for Easter holidays and in particular to visit
Apostolos Andreas church and for shopping bargains and casino visits.
While politics are discussed openly on both sides, travellers should always approach the
subject with tact. Both Greek Cypriots and Turkish Cypriots may be forthright in discuss-
ing the issue, but it's still better to let them initiate the discussion. There are pockets of
hard-liners still on both sides of the island and for the older generation, especially who ex-
