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with wooden floors. Most have private bathrooms. Quarters are tight and there's no TV
but the location can't be beat.
Mercearia da Vila
( www.merceariadavila.pt ; Rua Cardeal Saraiva 34-36; d/ste €65/80; ) Six rooms hide above this charm-
ing old grocery-store-turned-cafe. Each comes with a theme (from green tea to chocolate),
as well as hardwood floors and original furniture. Some have balconies, and the top-floor
suite has a window overlooking the river. There's also a shared living room and kitchen.
Don't miss the delicious petiscos and homemade cakes downstairs.
GUESTHOUSE $$
Casa do Pinheiro
( 258 943 971; www.manorhouses.com/manors/portugal/casadopinheiro.html ; Rua General Norton de Matos 629;
s/d €55/65; ) A stunning place set in a painstakingly restored private house from the
1700s, whose seven elegant rooms boast high ceilings, antique beds, hardwood floors and
touches of religious art. Some rooms have balconies, while others open onto the splendid
back garden with a small pool and fruit trees. Breakfast is fabulous.
GUESTHOUSE $$
InLima Hotel & Spa
( 258 900 050; www.inlimahotel.com ; Rua Agostinho José Taveira 6; s/d €65/85; ) Floating above
the ecovia like some whitewashed frosted glass pod from the future is the swankiest, most
contemporary hotel in town. The 30 chic rooms all have woven floors, blond-wood desks,
lush linens, rain showers and wide terraces. At these prices, it's a steal.
BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
RURAL INN $$
Casa do Arrabalde
( 258 742 442; www.casadoarrabalde.com ; Arcozelo; s/d €60/80, cottage €140; ) This terrific op-
tion sits conveniently just across the Ponte Romana in Arcozelo. The main quarters are
still inhabited by the family who built the place in the 18th century. Rooms are grand and
furnished with period antiques; the cottages are more contemporary. There are huge verd-
ant grounds and an inviting pool.
Casa do Barreiro
( 258 948 137; www.casadobarreiro.com ; Gemeira; s/d €45/75, apt €70-120; ) Particularly eleg-
ant, this 17th-century yellow manor house about halfway between Ponte de Lima and
Ponte de Barca features original details, including stone mantles and azulejos . The six
rooms and two apartments are spare but lovely, and the grounds gush with fountains, are
RURAL INN $$
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