Travel Reference
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surrounded by vineyards and include a pool and tennis courts. It's open from May to
September.
Carmo's Boutique
Hotel
( 258 938 743; www.carmosboutiquehotel.com ; Estrada Nacional 203, Gemeira; d/ste €220/320; )
The area's best hotel, this boutique hideaway is in the village of Gemeira en route to Ponte
da Barca and has 15 stunning rooms, two pools and a small basement spa inside a contem-
porary two-wing structure. Inside, it is all about casual and cosy chic, breakfast is served
till noon and rates include dinner at the restaurant, which whips up great regional dishes.
Definitely worth a splurge.
BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
Eating
A Tulha
( 258 942 879; Rua Formosa; mains €6-10; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun; ) All dark wood,
stone and terracotta tiles inside, this restaurant serves excellent meat and fish dishes with
plenty of vegetables. Try the medalhão á Tulha - a thick steak wrapped in bacon.
PORTUGUESE $
Muralha
(Largo da Picota; mains €8.50-12; lunch & dinner Wed-Mon, lunch Tue) Tucked into an alcove behind
one of the town's old towers, this somewhat divey dining room serves tasty octopus and
meat dishes. It brags about its cabrito too.
PORTUGUESE $$
Manuel Padeiro
(Rua do Bonfim 20; mains €7.50-14; lunch & dinner Mon-Tue & Thu-Sun) The speciality at this simple
local tavern with a 60-year tradition is sarrabulho , a hearty rice dish with pork blood,
meat and entrails. Other dishes are well-prepared too, including the daily weekday lunch
specials, which are a steal.
PORTUGUESE $$
Vaca Das Cordas
(Rua Padre Francisco Pacheco 39-41; mains €10-13; 11am-2am Mon-Sat) On a narrow lane near Largo
de Camões, you'll find a long dark restaurant and bar that serves juicy grilled steak and
lots of meaty appetisers. Bull-fighting murals and cowboy accoutrements adorn the walls.
PORTUGUESE $$
Sabores do Lima
PORTUGUESE $$
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