Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
COASTAL ALENTEJO
TOP OF CHAPTER
Vila Nova de Milfontes
POP 3200
One of the loveliest towns along this stretch of the coast, Vila Nova de Milfontes has an at-
tractive, whitewashed centre, sparkling beaches nearby and a laid-back population who
couldn't imagine living anywhere else. Milfontes remains much more low-key than most
resort towns, except in August when it's packed to the hilt with surfers and sun-seekers (up
to 50,000 people in town). It's located in the middle of the beautiful Parque Natural do
Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina and is still a port (Hannibal is said to have sheltered
here) alongside a lovely, sand-edged limb of estuary.
Milfonte's narrow lanes and tiny plazas harbour varied eating and drinking options, with
even more scenic restaurants out on the beach.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PADARIA IN VENDA FRIA
Bread lovers and those who appreciate traditional culinary practices shouldn't go past the very simple
padaria
(bakery; open 8am to 8pm) in the tiny village of Venda Fria on Strada R393, 4.5km from Vila Nova de Milfontes.
Dona Ercilia Joaquina has baked bread here every day for over 20 years. You can't enter the kitchen for photo-
graphs, but you can pick up some steaming, straight-from-the oven loaves for around €1.50. Heading north, turn
left after Cafe Venda Fria and continue for 200m. Look for a tiny black-and-white
'pão'
(bread) sign on the right.
Beaches
Praia do Farol
, the lighthouse beach just by the town, is sheltered but gets busy. Beaches on
the other side of the estuary are less crowded. Be careful of the strong river currents run-
ning through the estuary. If you have your own transport, you could head out to the fantast-
ic
Praia do Malhão
, backed by rocky dunes and covered in fragrant scrub, around 7km to the
north (travel 2.5km to Bruinheras, turn left at the roundabout just before the primary
school, then travel another 3km - at the time of research it was signed to the left). The
more remote parts of the beach harbour nudist and gay areas. The sea can be quite wild
here, but the rugged coast is strikingly empty of development.
