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of their type in Italy, they were commissioned by a local noble and made in Syria before
being shipped to Amalfi. Less impressive is the baroque interior, although the altar fea-
tures some fine statues and there are some interesting 12th- and 13th-century mosaics. In
high season, entrance to the cathedral between 10am and 5pm is through the adjacent
Chiostro del Paradiso, where you have to pay an entrance fee of €2.50.
Chiostro del Paradiso
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( 089 87 13 24; Piazza del Duomo; adult/reduced €2.50/1; 9am-7pm) To the left of
Amalfi's cathedral porch, these magnificent Moorish-style cloisters were built in 1266 to
house the tombs of Amalfi's prominent citizens. 120 marble columns support a series of
tall, slender Arabic arches around a central garden. From the cloisters, go through to the
Basilica del Crocefisso, where you'll find various religious artefacts displayed in glass
cabinets and some fading 14th-century frescoes. Beneath lies the 1206 crypt containing
the remains of Sant'Andrea.
CLOISTERS
Grotta dello Smeraldo
(admission €6; 9am-4pm; ) Four kilometres west of Amalfi, Conca dei Marini is
home to one of the coast's most popular sights. Named after the eerie emerald colour that
emanates from the water, this grotto is well worth a visit. Stalactites hang down from the
24m-high ceiling, while stalagmites grow up to 10m tall. Each year, on 24 December and
6 January, skin-divers from all over Italy make their traditional pilgrimage to the ceramic
presepe (nativity scene) submerged beneath the water.
ITA buses regularly pass the car park above the cave entrance (from where you take a
lift or stairs down to the rowing boats). Alternatively, Coop Sant'Andrea runs two daily
boats from Amalfi (€15 return) at 9am and 3.30pm. Allow 1½ hours for the return trip.
GROTTO
Museo della Carta
( 089 830 45 61; www.museodellacarta.it ; Via delle Cartiere; admission €4;
10am-6.30pm) Amalfi's paper museum is housed in a 13th-century paper mill (the oldest
in Europe). It lovingly preserves the original paper presses, which are still in full working
order, as you'll see during the 15-minute guided tour (in English) which explains the ori-
ginal cotton-based paper production and the later wood pulp manufacturing. Afterwards
you may well be inspired to pick up some of the stationery sold in the gift shop, alongside
calligraphy sets and paper pressed with flowers.
MUSEUM
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