Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Despite their differing scale and composition, both versions shared the same rich symbolism, from
the tavern as a representation of sin to the stream or fountain as a symbol of purification. In the
presepe del Settecento
, the nativity itself was often set among the ruins of a pagan temple, reflecting
both Christianity's triumph over paganism and a fascination with the century's archaeological dis-
coveries, among them Pompeii.
For the nobility and the bourgeoisie of 18th-century Naples, the
presepe
allowed a convenient
marriage of faith and ego, the crib becoming as much a symbol of wealth and good taste as a medita-
tion on the Christmas miracle. The finest sculptors were commissioned and the finest fabrics used.
Even the royals got involved: Charles III of Bourbon consulted the esteemed
presepe
expert, Domin-
ican monk Padre Rocco, on the creation of his 5000-
pastore
spectacular, still on show at the Palazzo
Reale (
Click here
). Yet even this pales in comparison to the epic crib showcased at the Certosa e
Museo di San Martino (
Click here
)
, considered the world's greatest.
Centuries on, the legacy continues, with
presepe
and
pastore
peddlers dotted across the city.
Sadly, many of these now sell mass-produced reproductions, with only a few workshops or studios
completely handcrafting their
pastori
the old-fashioned way. Among the latter are Ars Neapolitana (
Click here
)
and La Scarabattola (
Click here
)
, who share the honour with Sorrelle Corcione, Fratelli
Sinno, and further out in suburban Torre del Greco, veteran
presepe
maestro, Salvatore Giordano.
These artisans remain true to the
presepe
's golden age. Each
pastore
's bust is molded from fine-
grain clay on a damp wooden block called
il morto
(literally, 'the dead man'), commencing with the
chest, then the neck and finally the head. After the basic bust is formed and aired for an hour, work
begins on sculpting the details, from the neck muscles and nose to wrinkles. Tradition insists that the
pastore
's bodily features reflect those of the past, hence the prevalence of missing teeth, warts, and
goiters. Interestingly, some Neapolitans still wittily refer to the 'aesthetically challenged' as
'curiuso
comm'a nu'pastore'
(as ugly as a crib figurine).
Once completed, the bust is fired in a kiln for eight hours before the character is given glass eyes
and painted using either acrylic paint or traditional oil paint. The bust is then attached to the rest of
the body (hemp thread wrapped around a metal skeleton) and - last but not least - adorned with an
intricate, handmade costume.
Viva Lo Re €€
Offline map
CAMPANIAN
(
081 739 02 07;
www.vivalore.it
; Corso Resina 261, Ercolano; meals €30;
Tue-
Sat, lunch only Sun, closed Aug;
Circumvesuviana to Ercolano-Scavi)
Set on the so-
