Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Street Eats
The most atmospheric place to try İstanbul's favourite fast-food treat, the
balık ekmek
(fish sandwich), is at the
Eminönü end of the Galata Bridge. At the
stands
Offline map
in front of fishing boats tied to the quay, mackerel
fillets are grilled, crammed into fresh bread and served with salad; an optional squeeze of bottled lemon is recom-
mended. A sandwich will set you back about
"
5, and can be accompanied by a glass of the
şalgam
(sour turnip
juice) sold by nearby pickle vendors. Alternatively,
Fürreyya Galata Balıkçısı
Offline map
Google map
serves
an excellent version for
"
7.
Galatasaray's fish market,
Balık Pazarı
Offline map
Google map
(Fish Market; Şahne Sokak of İstiklal
Caddesi, Galatasaray; )
, is full of small stands selling
midye tava
(skewered mussels fried in hot oil),
kokoreç
(grilled sheep's intestines stuffed with peppers, tomatoes, herbs and spices) and other snacks. You'll also
find shops selling fish, caviar, fruit, vegetables and other produce; mostly on Duduodaları Sokak on the left (south-
ern) side of the market.
Beyoğlu & Around
A recent local-government ban on outdoor drinking in Beyoğlu has had a sorry impact on
this neighbourhood's restaurant and bar scene. We, like many locals, can only hope that
good sense prevails and the ban is rescinded in the near future.
The only enclave to escape the ban was Nevizade Sokak behind the Balık Pazarı, which
continues to host boistrous crowds on weekend evenings.
ASMALI CAVIT €€
| Turkish
(Asmalı Meyhane; 212-292 4950; Asmalımescit Sokak 16, Asmalımescit; mezes
"
6-20, mains
"
18-24;
Karaköy, then funicular to Tünel)
Cavit Saatcı's place is quite possibly the best
meyhane
in the
city. The old-fashioned interior gives no clue as to the excellence of the food on offer.
Stand-out dishes include
yaprak ciğer
(liver fried with onions),
patlıcan salatası
(eggplant
salad),
muska boreği
(phyllo stuffed with beef and onion) and
kalamar tava
(fried cala-
mari). Bookings essential.
LOKANTA MAYA €€
| Modern Turkish
(
lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Tue-Sat, brunch Sun;
Karaköy)
Critics and chowhounds alike are
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