Travel Reference
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raving about the dishes created by chef Didem Şenol at her stylish restaurant near the
Karaköy docks. The author of a successful cookbook on Aegean cuisine, Didem's food is
light, flavoursome, occasionally quirky and always assured. Book for dinner; lunch is
cheaper and more casual.
ZÜBEYIR OCAKBAŞI €€
| Kebap
Kabataş, then funicular to Taksim)
Every morning, the chefs at this popular
ocakbaşı
(grill
house) prepare the fresh, top-quality meats to be grilled over their handsome copper-
hooded barbecues that night: spicy chicken wings and Adana kebaps, flavoursome ribs,
pungent liver kebaps and well-marinated lamb
şış
kebaps. Bookings essential.
MEZE BY LEMON TREE €€€
| Modern Turkish
Karaköy, then funicular to Tünel)
Chef Gençay Üçok creates some of İstanbul's most interest-
ing - and delicious - modern Turkish food. Come to his small restaurant to sample tri-
umphs such as the monkfish casserole or grilled lamb sirloin with baked potatoes and red
beets. Bookings essential.
KARAKÖY LOKANTASI €€
| Turkish
( 212-292 4455; Kemankeş Caddesi 37a, Karaköy; mezes
"
6-10, portions
"
7-12, grills
"
11-16; dinner
daily, lunch Mon-Sat; Karaköy)
Known for its gorgeous tiled interior, genial owner and
bustling vibe, Karaköy Lokantası serves tasty and well-priced food to its loyal local clien-
tele. It functions as a
lokanta
during the day, but at night it morphs into a
meyhane
, with
slightly higher prices. Bookings are essential for dinner.
ZENCEFIL €
| Vegetarian
( Kurabiye Sokak 8; soup
"
7-9, mains
"
9-17; 10am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun; Kabataş,
then funicular to Taksim)
This vegetarian cafe's interior is comfortable and stylish, with a
glassed courtyard and bright colour scheme, and its food is 100% homemade, fresh and
varied. One chicken dish always features on the otherwise strictly vegetarian menu, and
the cafe makes its own ginger beer and ginger ale as well as serving alcoholic drinks.
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