Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
• Kabocha. Although kabocha has become widely available only within the past dec-
ade or so, it seems to be everywhere today. This squash is round and slightly flattened at
both ends. The skin is dark green with delicate gray-blue tracing (there are also allgreen
and dark orange versions), the flesh is pale to medium orange and extremely dense and
smooth and the flavor is very sweet, with a nice green squashy edge for some backbone.
Whatever the variety, picking a particular squash is a bit of an art. One of the best clues
is to inspect the stem, which should al ways be present and should be dry and corky. This
tells you that the squash stayed on the vine until it was almost ready to fall off. (Botanists
call this natural separation "abscission.") The color of the skin should be deep and vibrant,
which shows the full development of the chlorophyll and carotenoid pigments that come
with maturity. The quality of the color should be matte rather than shiny. Many squash
show yellow or golden spots where they rested on the ground, just as melons do. Although
this area may be pale, it should be deeply colored as well, and certainly not green. When
a squash is fully mature, you won't be able to nick the skin with your thumbnail.
"Curing" the squash - storing it for a couple of weeks under the proper conditions -
improves the flavor of some varieties. During this period enzymes convert much of the
squash's starch to sugar. Indeed, one study found that proper curing (at 75 to 80 degrees
and high humidity) for up to three weeks had more effect on the sweetness and flavor
of some squash than did an extra week on the vine. This is particularly true of moschata
squash, such as butternut and kabocha, and true to a slightly lesser extent of maxima
squash, such as red kuri, Hubbard and pumpkins.
Pepo squash, such as acorn, carnival, spaghetti, delicata and sweet dumpling, are
closely related to zucchini and other summer squash. They can be cured to harden the
shell and reduce the moisture content (improving texture), but they do not convert starch
to sugar. They also have thinner skins and do not store as well.
At the market you can spot cured squashes because their colors, though saturated, will
be slightly faded. After curing, squash should be stored at cool room temperature (about
50 degrees). Refrigerating them will deaden the flavor and cause pitting and soft spots to
occur on the surface.
The flavor and texture of winter squash will vary tremendously depending on how it is
cooked. When it is cooked with moisture, such as in steaming, the taste is subtle and the
texture delicate. (Normally, you wouldn't want to simmer squash fully immersed unless
you're making soup, because the flesh is so delicate it will start to dissolve in the liquid.)
When it is cooked with dry heat, such as in roasting, the natural sugars caramelize. As the
