Agriculture Reference
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mois ture evaporates, the flesh becomes intensely sweet and deeply flavored, and the tex-
ture becomes dense and creamy, even buttery. If you've never tried sauteing winter squash,
you should. The exterior caramelizes nicely, but the interior stays delicate. Even better, in-
stead of taking 45 to 60 minutes to cook (as with roasting), sauteed squash is done in less
than 15 minutes.
W H E R E T H E Y' R E G ROW N: Most winter squash are at their best from late
September through early November. Later than that, you should stick with butternut and
kabocha, which will last through December and even into early January. Winter squash in
general are not grown widely enough to be tracked separately as a category; pumpkins are
grown primarily in Illinois and California.
H O W T O C H O O S E: In general, choose squash that have a hard shell; deep,
vibrant colors; a hard, corky stem; and a deeply colored resting spot.
H O W T O S T 0 R E: Store winter squash in a cool, dark place. Do not refriger-
ate.
H O W T O P R E P A R E: Getting to the sweet inner meat of a winter squash
can be a challenge. Some varieties have skins so tough that you have to crack them with
a hatchet before you can begin to cook with them. Obviously, unless you have a hatchet
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