Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
splendid
millefoglie
of eggplant and sweet red peppers. It's also a perfect late-night stop
for wine by the glass or one of its homemade, over-the-top creamy and chocolatey
desserts. The wine list is extensive, with Sicilian, Italian and French offerings, and you
can order by the glass. There is no
coperto
(cover charge). Reservations are recommended
on weekend evenings.
Taberna Sveva
( 093 12 46 63; Piazza Federico di Svevia; meals €25-35; Thu-Tue)
Away from the main tourist
maelstrom, the charming Taberna Sveva is tucked away in a quiet corner of Ortygia. On
warm summer evenings the outdoor terrace is the place to sit, with alfresco tables set out
on a tranquil cobbled square in front of Syracuse's 13th-century castle. The food is tradi-
tional Sicilian, so expect plenty of tuna and swordfish and some wonderful pasta.
Particularly good are the
gnocchi al pistacchio
(with olive oil, parmesan, pepper, garlic
and grated pistachio nuts). Slow Food recommended.
SICILIAN
€€
Osteria Vite e Vitello
MEAT
€€
( 0931 46 42 69; Piazza Francesco Corpaci 1; meals €33; Mon-Sat)
Bucking the trend for seafood,
this cheerful Ortygia trattoria flies the flag for meat-eaters (and how). Delicious
involtini
(meat rolls) are stuffed with prosciutto, cheese and onion; pork steaks are cased in crusts
of green Sicilian pistachios; ricotta ravioli is served in a rich pork
ragù
(meat sauce). It's
all delightfully decadent.
Portions are encyclopaedic in size and the wine list is long enough to satisfy most ama-
teur aficionados.
La Gazza Ladra
( 340 0602428; Via Cavour 8; meals €25-30; Tue-Sun Sep-Jun)
Great food served in welcoming
surroundings at honest prices: the recipe for success sounds simple but few manage it as
well as this friendly, pocket-sized osteria. Run by a husband-and-wife team, it's a bright,
laid-back place with colourful photos on white walls, iron-and-glass tables and an open
kitchen.
SICILIAN
€€
